Bullet Charm

Bullet Charm

1 - 45 Caliber Bullet Head 

A marble-size ball of Polymer Clay (color, your choice)

 1 - Pendant Bezel, Antique Copper (or silver, brass, or other...your choice). This one is approx. 1" in diameter and approx. 2mm deep..

Put a bit of liquid clay / bake and bond / polypaste, etc. in the bottom of the bezel.  Form the ball of clay (single color or mix of colors) and push it into the bezel to the desired shape (flat, rounded, etc.).  Just be sure the clay sits high enough in the bezel to envelope the bullet head.  This will depend on how thin the bullet head is (you decide when you cut it from the spent bullet.).

Push the bullet head into the center of the clay.  You will need to reshape the clay and push the clay up and around the bullet head to the height you want evenly around the bullet.

Smooth out finger prints and make sure the clay is not over the top of the bezel edge.

Cure the clay.

When cool, you can sand and buff the clay or you can apply a clear coat.  

The pendant can be put on a key chain split ring (key chain charm), on a chain or cord (necklace), on a ring for use on a range bag, purse, or jacket (zipper pull), etc. 

Other ideas:  Initials can be engraved in the clay above or below the bullet (or one initial on either side of the bullet), or Swarovski crystals could be incorporated into the clay for the girly girl.  The clay could also be textured with a pattern.

This one was made with liquid clay and mica powder...and a bullet head.  It's hard to capture in a photo, but the layers of mica powder and transparent clay give depth to this one!

LOOKING FOR EMPTY, ONCE-FIRED BULLET CARTRIDGES!

• Do you shoot?      
• Are you willing to send me your empty, once-fired cartridges?

 

If you are just throwing away your empty cartridges or leaving them at the gun range, please contact me.
I am looking for all calibers/millimeter cartridges in brass and nickel.  

• Rifle
• Handgun
• Shotgun
• Machine gun
• Whatever you have and are willing to send  

There would be nothing for you to do...no cleaning...just mail them to me for use in making jewelry!

Please contact me via the contact form in the left navigation if you would be willing to send me your empties! 
I will reimburse your mailing costs so there's no cost to you.

THANK YOU!!

More Wall Plates

MORE WALL PLATES:
After completing the 17 piece set for a customer recently (see previous post), I had the bug to come up with something new for my own kitchen...

 


This is what I came up with.  I have oil rubbed bronze fixtures and hardware (dark with a bit of copper edging).  And I wanted something to go with that. I also have a couple of drop lights over the island/counter that are also dark, but the shades are mission style, stained glass.  The colors in my kitchen are oak cabinets, green counter tops, tan walls (above chair rail) and brick red (under chair rail).  So, I wanted to continue the "warm" atmosphere in the kitchen and get rid of the plain ol' white wall plates.
I decided to paint the screws black and I liked it much better.

This is bronze and copper mica powders over black embossed clay.  You could use as little or as much mica powders as you liked in any color.  You could also use Inka Gold or alcohol inks.  Or...you could simply emboss black clay (or any color clay, for that matter) and gloss coat the finished product without using any powders or other applications.

So many possibilities!

Wall Plates

WALL PLATES

I just recently completed a request for 17 wall plates -- here are 15 of them!

These looked great using brown plates that already had brown screws, not white.

I covered the plate with a thin sheet of clay textured like "naugahide." I cured this layer, let it cool, then added the second layer in pieces textured like "tooled" leather, not covering the entire plate.  I cured the plate again (about 15 minutes 1st time and about 20 minutes the second time).  You have to be careful of air bubbles with the first layer. But it's easy to pierce them with the Xacto knife since this layer is textured as it is.  It's like camo for any puncture holes!

Be sure to cut out the screw  holes before curing...not so easy afterward and it looks neater if you make the holes in the soft clay.  You can use the screw head to make an impression and measure to be sure the opening will accommodate the screw.

After curing I gave a gloss coat to only the "tooled" leather parts. But you could clear coat the entire plate if you wanted.  I like the difference between the gloss and matte finish...visual interest.

An inexpensive way to upgrade your decor...if you make them yourself.  

A little time consuming, but worth the end result!!!

HALLOWEEN is Around the Corner

Halloween is just around the corner!

I don't make a huge production of Halloween at my house anymore, but I still get a kick out of the costumes and decorations available and seeing people who do decorate and dress up.  

With some of these items I'm making, I might  even "dress up" at work this year!   

These may be the least expensive Halloween costumes EVER!! 

So, a little glow in the dark clay (or other clay) and a little mica powder or inka gold in a few colors, a hair pin or two, a bit of cord, a bead or two, an ear wire or two...and VOILA!  Halloween Costume!!!   MMMWWWAAAHAAAHAAAAAHAAAA

Vampire Hunter Trophy Earring - Vampire Tooth

Glow in the Dark Clay with red clay blood drips on gum metal fish hook ear wires.  

A single earring with the vampire's tooth as the Hunter's keepsake for the kill!

Horn Hair Clips and Horn Hair Pins

Bobby Pins and Alligator Hair Clips make dressing up easy peasy!

 Werewolf Hunter Trophy Necklace - Werewolf Tooth

Instantly become very scary as you display your werewolf slaying talents around your neck!

My First Silver Piece!

I have been playing again!

Introducing...my first silver piece... 

[ insert drum roll here]

This is silver clay...meaning this piece is .999 pure silver after firing.  This will not bake in the oven to cure...it requires a kiln or torch firing.  I think I will play some more with this awesome medium!

I cut out the shape, added some texture, and I created a bale on the back...

After firing, it was cleaned, and oxidized (the black in the recessed portion of the pattern) and then polished.  It's not perfect...but it isn't too bad for my first piece!

I strung it on 3 leather cords (symbolism), added a clasp, and voila!  

My very own one of a kind cross necklace!  I'm so excited!

Pure silver is softer than Sterling Silver because Sterling is an alloy (it contains other metals...copper, etc.). Alloys are stronger/harder than pure silver...BUT pure silver won't tarnish like Sterling (because of the other metals in it).

I can't wait to make some more goodies in silver!

PINS

PINS

A few pins made from some scrap clay. The shape is configured and finished on all sides and cured.   Then a pin back is added (using an adhesive like bake & bond or liquid clay) then covered with some more clay (here is where I add my "signature" stamp) and baked again.  

Below is a pin that matches a set of clip on earrings and a fun colorful pin.

Just about anything can be made into a pin.  The pin backs come in different sizes.  These are small.

(the back of the blue pin)

Black Titanium & Gun Metal

As I referred to the Black TN (titanium) finish matching the gun metal finish nicely in a previous post, I thought I would share these photos. 

This is a  Black Titanium Slimline (see the insignia on the clip) with a gun metal stylus tip added.  

The clay is a simple red and black semi-mix.  The titanium is very durable, but the tip is not available in the same finish.  Adding a tip in the gun metal allows this nicely finished pen to also be made 

as a very handy stylus.  

This pen was made for one of my husband's co-workers...he's putting the titanium finish to the test!

STYLUS TIP INK PEN

I really like the new double-duty stylus tip ink pens.  

I think they are just so darned handy!  

This is one I made for a customer in the red glitter clay with the gun metal finish.  I think it looks quite sleek!  (I think it would have looked better with the red stylus tip on the end, but she wanted the black -- and the colored tip does add an extra cost.)

This is a slimline pen.  This pen also comes in Black Titanium (TN), however the stylus tip does not.  

Having said that, the finishes are identical in tone and the gun metal stylus tip looks quite at home on the titanium finish pen.  

Buffing

Buffing is a bit more difficult as the material used and the tool used can either gouge the clay or not be of any help at all (i.e., a waste of time).  I tried using a rotary tool like nail technicians use (electronic file).  Kind of like a smaller version of a Dremel with sanding drums and buffing pads.  I found this to be a great tool when dry sanding, but not so much for buffing. It just didn't go fast enough to get a shine.  I could buff with a  piece of denim and get about the same shine (which is fine if you want a satin finish instead of glossy).  However, even in sanding, I only have a couple different grits of sand paper...nothing like the micro-mesh!   So, I tried my dremel and used the cotton buffing/polishing wheel that comes with the kit.  Bad idea. It gouged my clay. the felt polishing wheel that comes with the kit was also too harsh for the clay.  So, I set about looking for information about buffing specifically.  I found some information, but nothing was "complete." Words like "modified" were used in a description, but they didn't offer any information about how they "modified" the tool.

I tried cutting up an old, soft t-shirt into circles and putting those on my dremel spindle.  It worked pretty good, actually. The problem was 1) the hole at the center wallowed out and they eventually tore and flew off the dremel, 2) the material that stayed on the dremel just frayed and wore out so quickly that I would have to use all my t-shirts to polish all my projects -- not acceptable, and 3) the lint!! OMG the LINT!!!  My kitchen was covered in white fuzz  and my window was open so the screen now has white fuzzy lint all over it and needs to be taken off and cleaned.  UGGGH!  (I don't like creating more work for myself.)  So, I felt I had gotten closer to a solution, but my t-shirts were NOT going to be THE solution.

I found some other material that I thought would work but it also flew off the spindle almost immediately.  So, I decided the center hole would need to be reinforced.  This meant sewing.  Ewwww!  I don't sew.  And then I found someone who makes just what I was looking for and reinforced the center hole by sewing and everything!  She sells them on Etsy for $12 for a pack of 3.  My only concern with this is not knowing yet how long each one will last, $12 for 3 could get pricey over time.   But for now, I have found what I've been looking for.  Once the edges of these get frayed, they really polish nicely.  They do produce a little lint (kind of gets in your nose!), but nothing like the t-shirt material!  Thank goodness...That was bad inside or outside!
If you would like to visit her shop it's:  2GoodClayers on Etsy.  She's very helpful and nice.  She ships out of Canada.

So...here are some photos of some items that I sanded (micro mesh) and buffed using the Dremel and 2GoodClayers' buffing pads:

When buffing with these you barely need to touch the piece to the edge of the buffing pad.  No need to push against it.  Hold onto your piece tightly, do not have anyone standing near you while you buff, and wear safety glasses. 

If you order any of these buffing pads from her, please let her know you learned of her shop/items here.
Much appreciated!!

Sanding

I have been working on my sanding & buffing methods.

The micro-mesh sanding system which includes the equivalent to dry sand paper 1500 grit down to 12,000 grit equivalent.  You can get it with or without the sanding block.  Use it with a small tub of water to wet sand.  Add a drop or two of dish detergent in the water.  No need to make bubbles, just having the soap in the water helps with surface tension while sanding. Dip your micro mesh sheet in the water and sand, dipping as you go occasionally to rinse off the clay particles and pick up some more water/soap.  Change the sheets incrementally until you get to the grit you want to finish with and you have the smooth finish you want.  Rinse your piece and allow it to dry.   I am not the only clayer who uses this system.  It is much easier, quicker, and less messy than dry sanding...not to mention healthier!  If you do dry sand, use a mask and sand outside away from dogs/pets!

Depending on the shape and size of the piece and how the piece will be used/handled.  I'm not so concerned with applying a clear coat to a pendant or home decor item, although some items look nicer buffed and polished.  My primary reason for searching for a way to get a glass shine without using a clear coat was so I could avoid applying a coat to my pen barrels.   Pens are handled a lot if they are used regularly and I don't want to have to worry if the clear coat will peel, rub off, or yellow.  I don't believe any of the clear coats discussed in the previous post yellow, but I honestly haven't tested a piece for 20 years -- particularly a pen that is in contact with skin oils frequently.   My husband uses a pen I made while he's at work. He's outside most of the time, he pulls the pen out of his shirt pocket about 5000 times a day (which is why I took away his twist pen and made a click pen for him! He was using the clip on the twist pen to open the pen with one hand) and his hands are dirty and his shirts get sweaty. The pen barrels look like the underside of a horse saddle!  (Not good advertisement, I know!!) But he likes his pen!
Okay...I digress...
So....I would like to avoid the entire issue of clear coating my pens.  This also means I have to eliminate a few process options when making pens.  If I use any mica powders, surface applications like paste or metal powder, etc. I would have to seal it with a clear coat.  This would be fine if a customer is custom ordering a high end pen (fountain pen for a desk, for instance) that will only be used occasionally or will only be displayed and not used at all.  These processes would not be suitable for a pen that is used even somewhat regularly, placed in a purse, etc.  So, unless I am aware of a pen being purchased for display only, I will not use these applications and therefore will not need a clear coat.

Working with clay is a constant improving, learning experience, etc.  Stay tuned...

Some Fun Figurines...

I am dabbling in a little "sculpting" (if you can call it that...) with the clay.  The Bunny was the first one and I think he turned out  pretty good.  I'm thinking of some other animals to try to improve on my skills!

Glass beads were used for the eyes and a couple toothpicks as "bones" in the bunny as a neck and ears support system.  Everything else is clay (except for the bunny's whiskers and the mother of pearl chips on the turtle's shell). 

Stay tuned...hopefully I'll have some time to play with "sculpting" more soon...

Finishes

I have tested and used a number of different glossy finishes looking for the "miracle" product to use forever more!   Not sure I've found that product...at least for every project and item, anyway.

Sculpey Gloss (also available in Satin finish) is a good product, but pretty expensive compared to other products that can be used with PC.

Studio gloss (by Sculpey I believe) is very hard to find now.  I don't know if it's been discontinued or if retailers in my local area have simply stopped carrying it.  It was probably my favorite. (I'm sure that's why I cannot find it anymore! LOL).  It can be heat set/dried in the oven and was made for use with clay.

Minwax PolyAcrylic is an inexpensive product that can be used on PC.  It is fairly thin, thinner than Sculpey, and can be brushed on.  I recommend a number of coats as it is not very thick.

Future floor polish (now Pledge with Future in it) is also a product that works well with PC. It is extremely thin, so a number of coats are required.  And it smells better than the others.  It cleans up well, like the Minwax and Sculpey, with water and soap.

Both the Minwax can and Future bottle will last a very long time for about $8 or so. Minwax can be purchased at the local hardware/Lowe's/Home Depot type stores.  The  Pledge with Future in it can be purchased at your grocery store/Walmart.   The Sculpey gloss is approx, $4 for a very small jar.  Sculpey also will not last very long after it has been opened and about half is used. Once air gets into the jar, it gets thick and cannot be used. I like the Sculpey product for use with the clay, but it cannot be heat set in the oven as the others can.
There are a couple other  products that have been discussed by other clayers as being good for clay.  I have not yet tried them, however.

I am attempting to perfect my sanding technique and buffing tools so as to not need a gloss finish applied after curing.  I've come close, but am not yet finished experimenting yet.  I don't expect this will be the ideal method for everything I do, but am hoping this will be the new way to get a high gloss sheen on my pen barrels.

If anyone has any suggestions or tips, I am open to hearing them.  Or if you have any questions about the finishes I've used, feel free to ask.

This is a pen I made (and am using myself as a "test" piece) that does not have a gloss coat applied.  It has been sanded and buffed.  However, it was buffed with a material that didn't hold up well at the high speed, so back to the drawing board.

 This is a pendant (used from the same clay) that was sanded & buffed as well. It also does not have a gloss finish applied to the clay.  Looks pretty good, but I'd like a bit more of a glass-like shine.

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Oh My Goodness!

Oh my goodness...it has been WAY too long since I've posted anything here on the blog.  It has been a great time since Christmas (with the new addition of the niece and nephew to the family), and it has been a stressful time (at work and with some home repairs).
I haven't done as much with the clay as I had planned over the winter months, but some badly needed organization has been completed and am hopefully going to be in a position to do a lot of creating this spring...and hopefully get the home repairs completed at the same time!  Whew!  A busy time!

Easter has come and gone...I hope everyone had a blessed day yesterday! It's still not very warm here where we are, but the grass is getting green, so hopefully it won't be long before it feels like Easter!

So, in honor of Easter, here's one of the creations I was able to complete this past weekend...

 

This bunny is all clay except for the whiskers (fishing line) and the eyes (glass beads).  Oh...and a few toothpick halves inserted to secure his head and each ear.  Other than that...solid clay.  This bunny was made with pearl white clay, which I probably will not do again.  The pearl clays are so soft that it is more difficult to retain the shape while holding the figure and keeping fingerprints out of the clay.  

I only gloss coated select parts of the bunny - the pink portion of the ears, the cheeks, the nose, the teeth, the egg, and the paw pads. 

He is my first animal "sculpture."  Not too bad for numero uno.  But I do (as will always) see areas that could use improvement. 

Instructions:  He was simply built by shaping the body first, adding the feet/legs and shaping the toes, then adding the "arms" and shaping the fingers.  Then separately the head was formed, the cheeks added and the teeth.  The triangular pink nose was attached and then the strip above the nose to round out his forehead.  The eyes were added by sinking glass seed beads into the clay and then fishing line inserted into the cheeks.  The whiskers were removed for curing and then glued back into the holes once hardened.  The head was then attached to the body using a piece of toothpick to serve as a small "spine."  The ears were formed with pink clay added and shaped before being gently attached to the head, again, using pieces of toothpicks for support.  And finally the tail.  The tail is the same white/glitter clay the cheeks are made with. Many tiny holes were made in the tail before attaching.  The hands were pulled away from his body enough to insert the clay egg.  As he is pretty thick, I baked him for more than an hour -- keeping watch on his ears as they are thinner and didn't want  them to burn.  You could cure the body partially then complete the curing once the head is attached. Just watch your series of bake times based on the thickness of the head.

I"m debating on what do make next -- a frog, turtle, maybe a mouse??  Stay tuned...

Halloween Punkin' Picks

BOOOOOO!

Halloween Decorations! 

These Punkin' Picks are glo in the dark ghosties made for a customer as a custom order.  They sit (and wrap around) copper wire cut to a point for easy insertion through the pumpkin skin.  They are clear-coated with polyurethane.  These are not hard to make, but are a bit time consuming due to the number of coats of glo paint and clear coat and drying times in between.  Also, the copper wire is purchased with a coating that has to be stripped off.

These can also be stuck down into a mums pot if you don't have a pumpkin.

These can be used for outdoor decoration for a time.  Most clay items can withstand quite a bit of the elements outdoors, but can fade over time in the sun and become brittle (depending on thickness) in the cold.

*** I would, however, keep them out of reach of dogs and other animals that like to chew on and eat plastic. My dogs love to eat the clay.  This is not good for the decoration, jewelry, etc., and is definitely very BAD for the dogs!  This certainly applies to any item made with PC, but with holiday decorations coming out of storage, it's a good time to remind!

Metal & Clay Focal Piece

This is another metal focal piece - in antique brass. It contains a clay mix of white & beige and holds 5 champagne colored Swarovski crystals, 5 small ruby colored Swarovski crystals, and one garnet genuine gemstone in the center.

I am working on my photography skills to capture the sparkle the Swarovski crystals have.  I haven't mastered that and the photos really do not do the pieces justice.  Even if this particular piece -- shape, design, and metal finish aren't your particular taste, this one sparkles nicely.  The champagne colored crystals are beautiful and blend so well with the clay colors.

The clay has been clear coated with a liner brush.  An antique brass bale finishes this pendant.
Simple and inexpensive to create.

Magnifier Paperweight

This is a nice item...great gift for a retiree, executive, congratulations, graduate, Father's Day, etc.  It's a desktop paperweight magnifying glass. Overall size is 2-1/2", about 3/4" thick with a 2" magnifier with 2.5x magnification. It weighs approx. 3.2 ounces, so it has a little heft, but isn't overly heavy.  

The clay was hand-crafted using multiple techniques.  Gold powder (fine powder applied to a wet paint brush) was hand painted onto the outer border and copper coloring (a paste-like product) was added to the inner rope detailed border. These applications are applied to the raw clay prior to curing.  Swarovski crystals were placed in the center and at three points on the border.  The inner portion in blue and white clay was done with layering clay, creating a texture and slicing off the raised portions then applying the trimmings to white clay.  The clay portion is clear coated and heat set.  

Resembles water and a porthole for a nautical theme.  This item lends to many different designs and creations!  Very easy to make and is a unique piece.  It is recommended that the clay "medallion" be created, cured and glued to the magnifier to avoid placing the entire item in the direct heat as the bottom is covered with felt and the heat may dry out the adhesive that bonds it to the metal. Also, the glass in the magnifier would get pretty hot!

Tis the Season to Decorate!

 These are clay ornaments with mother of pearl finish and glitter accents.  The beak and the feet on the dove ornaments are gold clay.  The hanger is craft wire and comes with the ornament (if you're like me, the package of ornament hooks just about ruins the decorating experience!  So...I included the hanger!) 

 I've made these ornaments in sets of 4, 5, 6, and 8 - depending on the ornament.  The cross ornament below is an individual -- it is a larger size and includes a Swarovski crystal as well as 2-tone clay, glitter edging and metallic finish on the edge and the center circle as well as the textured lines. 

 This set of 8 small ornaments (approx. 1/2 inch) are textured, feature mother of pearl finish on the edge with glitter detail on the edge as well.  These also include a wire hanger that you never have to remove!

 The set of 5 dove ornaments above feature gold glitter as well as "hologram" glitter.  A little less glitter on these to accentuate the detail.

 The fleur de lis ornaments are a little larger than the small cross ornaments and are painted with mother of pearl in the center recessed portion with hologram glitter around the edges. 

The Poinsettia ornaments can be made with 2 colors of red or one, in gold or white.  A touch of gold glitter in the center and red metallic highlights on the raised edges of the leaves really make this one stand out.  these are about an inch and a half and include the hangers as the others do.

The same poinsettias (and a couple others) were used to make these napkin rings of clay and copper wire.  The set of four go together, but each one is a little different.

The rocking horse above is my favorite.  I also don't think I would ever get what it's worth considering the time and work involved!!  But I think it turned out great!  The mane and tail are suede leather strips that were cut and applied one at a time, jump rings were used on the bridal and as stirrups, tin was used on the saddle and black suede cord was used for the reins.  Swarovski crystal accents on the bridal, saddle horn, and harness give him a little bling!

And we don't want to forget the Reason for the Season...a small grapevine wreath with a cross, dove, holly and swags.  Good size for a small space on a wall or in an office cubicle.  Glitter and metallic finish on the textured clay pieces give depth and hand-engraved lettering make this a one of a kind wreath.

So...when you find a bare spot among your decorations...just get out the clay!!