Bolt Action Pen for the Ladies!

A girly variation on the bolt action pen for the ladies! 
The finish is an antique copper with a soft brushed surface coupled with a pink, purple, pearl white, & black marbled clay barrel.  

A mokume gane technique was used where the sliced-off clay was applied on top of the pearl white leaving areas of white showing while including just a small amount of black clay pieces to 'anchor' the design.

I think the colors pair well with the copper plating...

particularly the antique finish.

And the slick bolt action click mechanism that retracts and extends the  pen tip can be configured for right-handed or left-handed use!  

I love these pens!!

• The Bolt Action pens come in Antique Copper (shown here), Antique Brass (shown in a previous post), Black Enamel,  Gun Metal, Chrome, and 24K gold plating.
• The rifle clip can be swapped out for a scope or deer head clip.  
• These pens come with a rose gold tip or you can request a matching tip (chrome tip for a chrome pen, for example)--inquire for availability of tip finishes.

Wall Plates

WALL PLATES

I just recently completed a request for 17 wall plates -- here are 15 of them!

These looked great using brown plates that already had brown screws, not white.

I covered the plate with a thin sheet of clay textured like "naugahide." I cured this layer, let it cool, then added the second layer in pieces textured like "tooled" leather, not covering the entire plate.  I cured the plate again (about 15 minutes 1st time and about 20 minutes the second time).  You have to be careful of air bubbles with the first layer. But it's easy to pierce them with the Xacto knife since this layer is textured as it is.  It's like camo for any puncture holes!

Be sure to cut out the screw  holes before curing...not so easy afterward and it looks neater if you make the holes in the soft clay.  You can use the screw head to make an impression and measure to be sure the opening will accommodate the screw.

After curing I gave a gloss coat to only the "tooled" leather parts. But you could clear coat the entire plate if you wanted.  I like the difference between the gloss and matte finish...visual interest.

An inexpensive way to upgrade your decor...if you make them yourself.  

A little time consuming, but worth the end result!!!

Bottle Stoppers

Bottle Stoppers are always a nice gift for the wine enthusiast or someone who likes to decorate.

Whether a seasonal theme, a hobby theme, or just a pretty design....

...whether small or large...

...there are so many options for creativity with bottle stoppers.
These stoppers are double sided for more clay-tivity!

These are stainless steel mini stoppers.  

Also available in Chrome.

Custom Orders Available.

The clay is cured directly on the stopper for a perfect fit.  All designs, powders, inks, or what-have-you are all placed on the clay while on the stopper.  The rubber withstands the curing process -- but don't forget about your stopper and leave it in the oven too long. That may dry out the rubber and cause it to crack.  Follow the instructions for baking the clay based on its thickness.  If you have clay so thick that you are concerned about the rubber piece, with a little effort you can remove the rubber piece and then replace it after curing or if you have a round cutter the same size as your stopper, you could cure the clay separately and not have the stopper in the oven at all -- then glue your clay medallion to the stopper.

Did you know that cured polymer can be carved??  This method lends to even more options for a bottle stopper.

There are other styles of bottle stoppers as well. They pose a bigger challenge to create, but it can be done!

Pink Ribbon

 Breast Cancer Pink Ribbon Pens

Breast Cancer Pink Ribbon Pens

24K Gold with an enameled pink ribbon...

Or Chrome with a pink crystal ribbon.

The gold pen has a band engraved with 2013, but can be changed to a plain, un-engraved band.

A loved one's initials can also be engraved in the clay (custom order).

The crystal clip is also available in 24K gold with clear crystals.

These clips can also be put in a comfort pen -- slightly thicker at the center band, but otherwise the same size as these Slimlines.   Some prefer a thicker pen to a more slender pen.

My First Silver Piece!

I have been playing again!

Introducing...my first silver piece... 

[ insert drum roll here]

This is silver clay...meaning this piece is .999 pure silver after firing.  This will not bake in the oven to cure...it requires a kiln or torch firing.  I think I will play some more with this awesome medium!

I cut out the shape, added some texture, and I created a bale on the back...

After firing, it was cleaned, and oxidized (the black in the recessed portion of the pattern) and then polished.  It's not perfect...but it isn't too bad for my first piece!

I strung it on 3 leather cords (symbolism), added a clasp, and voila!  

My very own one of a kind cross necklace!  I'm so excited!

Pure silver is softer than Sterling Silver because Sterling is an alloy (it contains other metals...copper, etc.). Alloys are stronger/harder than pure silver...BUT pure silver won't tarnish like Sterling (because of the other metals in it).

I can't wait to make some more goodies in silver!

Black Titanium & Gun Metal

As I referred to the Black TN (titanium) finish matching the gun metal finish nicely in a previous post, I thought I would share these photos. 

This is a  Black Titanium Slimline (see the insignia on the clip) with a gun metal stylus tip added.  

The clay is a simple red and black semi-mix.  The titanium is very durable, but the tip is not available in the same finish.  Adding a tip in the gun metal allows this nicely finished pen to also be made 

as a very handy stylus.  

This pen was made for one of my husband's co-workers...he's putting the titanium finish to the test!

STYLUS TIP INK PEN

I really like the new double-duty stylus tip ink pens.  

I think they are just so darned handy!  

This is one I made for a customer in the red glitter clay with the gun metal finish.  I think it looks quite sleek!  (I think it would have looked better with the red stylus tip on the end, but she wanted the black -- and the colored tip does add an extra cost.)

This is a slimline pen.  This pen also comes in Black Titanium (TN), however the stylus tip does not.  

Having said that, the finishes are identical in tone and the gun metal stylus tip looks quite at home on the titanium finish pen.  

The New FAVORITE!

My New FAVORITE Pen!

This is the Nouveau Sceptre Ball Point Pen designed by David Broadwell.

I made this pen for a customer and it is a beautiful pen...the photos do not do it justice!

This particular pen is finished in 22K Gold & Rhodium and the blue mix of clay looks so pretty with both finishes.  I am planning to make one for myself - but in a different clay color.  

This pen also comes in a 22K Gold & Black TN (titanium) finish.

It is a twist pen (twists at the end cap) and uses Parker-style refills.  You can definitely tell there is a pen in your hand (it weighs in more than the plastic bic), but it is balanced nicely.

Buffing

Buffing is a bit more difficult as the material used and the tool used can either gouge the clay or not be of any help at all (i.e., a waste of time).  I tried using a rotary tool like nail technicians use (electronic file).  Kind of like a smaller version of a Dremel with sanding drums and buffing pads.  I found this to be a great tool when dry sanding, but not so much for buffing. It just didn't go fast enough to get a shine.  I could buff with a  piece of denim and get about the same shine (which is fine if you want a satin finish instead of glossy).  However, even in sanding, I only have a couple different grits of sand paper...nothing like the micro-mesh!   So, I tried my dremel and used the cotton buffing/polishing wheel that comes with the kit.  Bad idea. It gouged my clay. the felt polishing wheel that comes with the kit was also too harsh for the clay.  So, I set about looking for information about buffing specifically.  I found some information, but nothing was "complete." Words like "modified" were used in a description, but they didn't offer any information about how they "modified" the tool.

I tried cutting up an old, soft t-shirt into circles and putting those on my dremel spindle.  It worked pretty good, actually. The problem was 1) the hole at the center wallowed out and they eventually tore and flew off the dremel, 2) the material that stayed on the dremel just frayed and wore out so quickly that I would have to use all my t-shirts to polish all my projects -- not acceptable, and 3) the lint!! OMG the LINT!!!  My kitchen was covered in white fuzz  and my window was open so the screen now has white fuzzy lint all over it and needs to be taken off and cleaned.  UGGGH!  (I don't like creating more work for myself.)  So, I felt I had gotten closer to a solution, but my t-shirts were NOT going to be THE solution.

I found some other material that I thought would work but it also flew off the spindle almost immediately.  So, I decided the center hole would need to be reinforced.  This meant sewing.  Ewwww!  I don't sew.  And then I found someone who makes just what I was looking for and reinforced the center hole by sewing and everything!  She sells them on Etsy for $12 for a pack of 3.  My only concern with this is not knowing yet how long each one will last, $12 for 3 could get pricey over time.   But for now, I have found what I've been looking for.  Once the edges of these get frayed, they really polish nicely.  They do produce a little lint (kind of gets in your nose!), but nothing like the t-shirt material!  Thank goodness...That was bad inside or outside!
If you would like to visit her shop it's:  2GoodClayers on Etsy.  She's very helpful and nice.  She ships out of Canada.

So...here are some photos of some items that I sanded (micro mesh) and buffed using the Dremel and 2GoodClayers' buffing pads:

When buffing with these you barely need to touch the piece to the edge of the buffing pad.  No need to push against it.  Hold onto your piece tightly, do not have anyone standing near you while you buff, and wear safety glasses. 

If you order any of these buffing pads from her, please let her know you learned of her shop/items here.
Much appreciated!!

Sanding

I have been working on my sanding & buffing methods.

The micro-mesh sanding system which includes the equivalent to dry sand paper 1500 grit down to 12,000 grit equivalent.  You can get it with or without the sanding block.  Use it with a small tub of water to wet sand.  Add a drop or two of dish detergent in the water.  No need to make bubbles, just having the soap in the water helps with surface tension while sanding. Dip your micro mesh sheet in the water and sand, dipping as you go occasionally to rinse off the clay particles and pick up some more water/soap.  Change the sheets incrementally until you get to the grit you want to finish with and you have the smooth finish you want.  Rinse your piece and allow it to dry.   I am not the only clayer who uses this system.  It is much easier, quicker, and less messy than dry sanding...not to mention healthier!  If you do dry sand, use a mask and sand outside away from dogs/pets!

Depending on the shape and size of the piece and how the piece will be used/handled.  I'm not so concerned with applying a clear coat to a pendant or home decor item, although some items look nicer buffed and polished.  My primary reason for searching for a way to get a glass shine without using a clear coat was so I could avoid applying a coat to my pen barrels.   Pens are handled a lot if they are used regularly and I don't want to have to worry if the clear coat will peel, rub off, or yellow.  I don't believe any of the clear coats discussed in the previous post yellow, but I honestly haven't tested a piece for 20 years -- particularly a pen that is in contact with skin oils frequently.   My husband uses a pen I made while he's at work. He's outside most of the time, he pulls the pen out of his shirt pocket about 5000 times a day (which is why I took away his twist pen and made a click pen for him! He was using the clip on the twist pen to open the pen with one hand) and his hands are dirty and his shirts get sweaty. The pen barrels look like the underside of a horse saddle!  (Not good advertisement, I know!!) But he likes his pen!
Okay...I digress...
So....I would like to avoid the entire issue of clear coating my pens.  This also means I have to eliminate a few process options when making pens.  If I use any mica powders, surface applications like paste or metal powder, etc. I would have to seal it with a clear coat.  This would be fine if a customer is custom ordering a high end pen (fountain pen for a desk, for instance) that will only be used occasionally or will only be displayed and not used at all.  These processes would not be suitable for a pen that is used even somewhat regularly, placed in a purse, etc.  So, unless I am aware of a pen being purchased for display only, I will not use these applications and therefore will not need a clear coat.

Working with clay is a constant improving, learning experience, etc.  Stay tuned...

Finishes

I have tested and used a number of different glossy finishes looking for the "miracle" product to use forever more!   Not sure I've found that product...at least for every project and item, anyway.

Sculpey Gloss (also available in Satin finish) is a good product, but pretty expensive compared to other products that can be used with PC.

Studio gloss (by Sculpey I believe) is very hard to find now.  I don't know if it's been discontinued or if retailers in my local area have simply stopped carrying it.  It was probably my favorite. (I'm sure that's why I cannot find it anymore! LOL).  It can be heat set/dried in the oven and was made for use with clay.

Minwax PolyAcrylic is an inexpensive product that can be used on PC.  It is fairly thin, thinner than Sculpey, and can be brushed on.  I recommend a number of coats as it is not very thick.

Future floor polish (now Pledge with Future in it) is also a product that works well with PC. It is extremely thin, so a number of coats are required.  And it smells better than the others.  It cleans up well, like the Minwax and Sculpey, with water and soap.

Both the Minwax can and Future bottle will last a very long time for about $8 or so. Minwax can be purchased at the local hardware/Lowe's/Home Depot type stores.  The  Pledge with Future in it can be purchased at your grocery store/Walmart.   The Sculpey gloss is approx, $4 for a very small jar.  Sculpey also will not last very long after it has been opened and about half is used. Once air gets into the jar, it gets thick and cannot be used. I like the Sculpey product for use with the clay, but it cannot be heat set in the oven as the others can.
There are a couple other  products that have been discussed by other clayers as being good for clay.  I have not yet tried them, however.

I am attempting to perfect my sanding technique and buffing tools so as to not need a gloss finish applied after curing.  I've come close, but am not yet finished experimenting yet.  I don't expect this will be the ideal method for everything I do, but am hoping this will be the new way to get a high gloss sheen on my pen barrels.

If anyone has any suggestions or tips, I am open to hearing them.  Or if you have any questions about the finishes I've used, feel free to ask.

This is a pen I made (and am using myself as a "test" piece) that does not have a gloss coat applied.  It has been sanded and buffed.  However, it was buffed with a material that didn't hold up well at the high speed, so back to the drawing board.

 This is a pendant (used from the same clay) that was sanded & buffed as well. It also does not have a gloss finish applied to the clay.  Looks pretty good, but I'd like a bit more of a glass-like shine.

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