Buffing

Buffing is a bit more difficult as the material used and the tool used can either gouge the clay or not be of any help at all (i.e., a waste of time).  I tried using a rotary tool like nail technicians use (electronic file).  Kind of like a smaller version of a Dremel with sanding drums and buffing pads.  I found this to be a great tool when dry sanding, but not so much for buffing. It just didn't go fast enough to get a shine.  I could buff with a  piece of denim and get about the same shine (which is fine if you want a satin finish instead of glossy).  However, even in sanding, I only have a couple different grits of sand paper...nothing like the micro-mesh!   So, I tried my dremel and used the cotton buffing/polishing wheel that comes with the kit.  Bad idea. It gouged my clay. the felt polishing wheel that comes with the kit was also too harsh for the clay.  So, I set about looking for information about buffing specifically.  I found some information, but nothing was "complete." Words like "modified" were used in a description, but they didn't offer any information about how they "modified" the tool.

I tried cutting up an old, soft t-shirt into circles and putting those on my dremel spindle.  It worked pretty good, actually. The problem was 1) the hole at the center wallowed out and they eventually tore and flew off the dremel, 2) the material that stayed on the dremel just frayed and wore out so quickly that I would have to use all my t-shirts to polish all my projects -- not acceptable, and 3) the lint!! OMG the LINT!!!  My kitchen was covered in white fuzz  and my window was open so the screen now has white fuzzy lint all over it and needs to be taken off and cleaned.  UGGGH!  (I don't like creating more work for myself.)  So, I felt I had gotten closer to a solution, but my t-shirts were NOT going to be THE solution.

I found some other material that I thought would work but it also flew off the spindle almost immediately.  So, I decided the center hole would need to be reinforced.  This meant sewing.  Ewwww!  I don't sew.  And then I found someone who makes just what I was looking for and reinforced the center hole by sewing and everything!  She sells them on Etsy for $12 for a pack of 3.  My only concern with this is not knowing yet how long each one will last, $12 for 3 could get pricey over time.   But for now, I have found what I've been looking for.  Once the edges of these get frayed, they really polish nicely.  They do produce a little lint (kind of gets in your nose!), but nothing like the t-shirt material!  Thank goodness...That was bad inside or outside!
If you would like to visit her shop it's:  2GoodClayers on Etsy.  She's very helpful and nice.  She ships out of Canada.

So...here are some photos of some items that I sanded (micro mesh) and buffed using the Dremel and 2GoodClayers' buffing pads:

When buffing with these you barely need to touch the piece to the edge of the buffing pad.  No need to push against it.  Hold onto your piece tightly, do not have anyone standing near you while you buff, and wear safety glasses. 

If you order any of these buffing pads from her, please let her know you learned of her shop/items here.
Much appreciated!!

Sanding

I have been working on my sanding & buffing methods.

The micro-mesh sanding system which includes the equivalent to dry sand paper 1500 grit down to 12,000 grit equivalent.  You can get it with or without the sanding block.  Use it with a small tub of water to wet sand.  Add a drop or two of dish detergent in the water.  No need to make bubbles, just having the soap in the water helps with surface tension while sanding. Dip your micro mesh sheet in the water and sand, dipping as you go occasionally to rinse off the clay particles and pick up some more water/soap.  Change the sheets incrementally until you get to the grit you want to finish with and you have the smooth finish you want.  Rinse your piece and allow it to dry.   I am not the only clayer who uses this system.  It is much easier, quicker, and less messy than dry sanding...not to mention healthier!  If you do dry sand, use a mask and sand outside away from dogs/pets!

Depending on the shape and size of the piece and how the piece will be used/handled.  I'm not so concerned with applying a clear coat to a pendant or home decor item, although some items look nicer buffed and polished.  My primary reason for searching for a way to get a glass shine without using a clear coat was so I could avoid applying a coat to my pen barrels.   Pens are handled a lot if they are used regularly and I don't want to have to worry if the clear coat will peel, rub off, or yellow.  I don't believe any of the clear coats discussed in the previous post yellow, but I honestly haven't tested a piece for 20 years -- particularly a pen that is in contact with skin oils frequently.   My husband uses a pen I made while he's at work. He's outside most of the time, he pulls the pen out of his shirt pocket about 5000 times a day (which is why I took away his twist pen and made a click pen for him! He was using the clip on the twist pen to open the pen with one hand) and his hands are dirty and his shirts get sweaty. The pen barrels look like the underside of a horse saddle!  (Not good advertisement, I know!!) But he likes his pen!
Okay...I digress...
So....I would like to avoid the entire issue of clear coating my pens.  This also means I have to eliminate a few process options when making pens.  If I use any mica powders, surface applications like paste or metal powder, etc. I would have to seal it with a clear coat.  This would be fine if a customer is custom ordering a high end pen (fountain pen for a desk, for instance) that will only be used occasionally or will only be displayed and not used at all.  These processes would not be suitable for a pen that is used even somewhat regularly, placed in a purse, etc.  So, unless I am aware of a pen being purchased for display only, I will not use these applications and therefore will not need a clear coat.

Working with clay is a constant improving, learning experience, etc.  Stay tuned...

Finishes

I have tested and used a number of different glossy finishes looking for the "miracle" product to use forever more!   Not sure I've found that product...at least for every project and item, anyway.

Sculpey Gloss (also available in Satin finish) is a good product, but pretty expensive compared to other products that can be used with PC.

Studio gloss (by Sculpey I believe) is very hard to find now.  I don't know if it's been discontinued or if retailers in my local area have simply stopped carrying it.  It was probably my favorite. (I'm sure that's why I cannot find it anymore! LOL).  It can be heat set/dried in the oven and was made for use with clay.

Minwax PolyAcrylic is an inexpensive product that can be used on PC.  It is fairly thin, thinner than Sculpey, and can be brushed on.  I recommend a number of coats as it is not very thick.

Future floor polish (now Pledge with Future in it) is also a product that works well with PC. It is extremely thin, so a number of coats are required.  And it smells better than the others.  It cleans up well, like the Minwax and Sculpey, with water and soap.

Both the Minwax can and Future bottle will last a very long time for about $8 or so. Minwax can be purchased at the local hardware/Lowe's/Home Depot type stores.  The  Pledge with Future in it can be purchased at your grocery store/Walmart.   The Sculpey gloss is approx, $4 for a very small jar.  Sculpey also will not last very long after it has been opened and about half is used. Once air gets into the jar, it gets thick and cannot be used. I like the Sculpey product for use with the clay, but it cannot be heat set in the oven as the others can.
There are a couple other  products that have been discussed by other clayers as being good for clay.  I have not yet tried them, however.

I am attempting to perfect my sanding technique and buffing tools so as to not need a gloss finish applied after curing.  I've come close, but am not yet finished experimenting yet.  I don't expect this will be the ideal method for everything I do, but am hoping this will be the new way to get a high gloss sheen on my pen barrels.

If anyone has any suggestions or tips, I am open to hearing them.  Or if you have any questions about the finishes I've used, feel free to ask.

This is a pen I made (and am using myself as a "test" piece) that does not have a gloss coat applied.  It has been sanded and buffed.  However, it was buffed with a material that didn't hold up well at the high speed, so back to the drawing board.

 This is a pendant (used from the same clay) that was sanded & buffed as well. It also does not have a gloss finish applied to the clay.  Looks pretty good, but I'd like a bit more of a glass-like shine.

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Slimline Textured Pen

This is a "fun" slimline pen.  Copper finish with brown clay and bits of copper and turquoise clay to give it a "speckled" look.  It is also textured in a pattern that you might find in tooled leather.  Sometimes texturing the pens is not so easy.  Once the clay is on the pen component at the correct thickness, putting the texture in the clay can push the clay "out of round."  This can be frustrating since you can't smooth the clay or roll the clay back into shape without losing the texture.  It can become a viscous cycle!  If you have a good rubber stamp with deep and thin raised areas and is also large enough (longer than the pen in size) it is much easier.  I've found that using something that fits inside the tube that is longer than the tube helps to roll the clay over the stamp at a more even pressure while keeping my fingers off the clay and pressing out the impression that was just created. I hold the "dowel" at the ends while I roll, but whatever you use as a "dowel" has to fit well in the tube or there will be too much "play" as you roll it.  Rolling the stamp over the clay doesn't work as you will smash the clay and you will be starting over!  Also, if you don't already have a baking rack -- usually used for curing beads -- it is VERY useful when curing the pen components.  Flat sides are undesirable!  However if you do not have one, just be sure to use parchment paper between your clay and the tray/pan that you use in the oven.  Slight imperfections in the roundness of the clay can be overcome when sanding, but it's best to avoid that altogether from the beginning.

Polymer Clay 101 (cont.)

Polymer Clay is low temp fired below 300 degrees.  Most items will cure in 20-30 minutes, but follow the directions on the package for temp and time.  Different makers of clay will vary in instructions somewhat.  A small, inexpensive toaster oven works great for small items like pendants, beads, candle holders, etc.  PC can burn and emit fumes if cured at a temp that is too high or for too long.
Other than a toaster oven, there are many tools to be had for claying.  Molds, texture plates & rubber stamps, stylus type tools, carving tools, bead rollers, baking racks...the list goes on and on.  However, I like to find items with interesting shapes and textures to use.  The flea market is a great place to find some of these types of items -- or Goodwill.  An old cabinet/drawer knob can make an interesting impression if it has a 3 dimensional design.  A textured plate or piece of fabric can make a nice scroll or geometrical design or a linen texture.  Experiment...if you don't like it you can always start over.  Cookie cutters and many household items or even things you would normally throw away can serve as a cutter with some interesting shapes.   Be sure, if you use anything with clay that it becomes "clay dedicated."  (You don't want to use a spoon or other kitchen utensil, for example, with clay and then use it to cook or eat with afterwards.)
More to come...

Polymer Clay 101 (cont.)

Glitter, inks, metallic powders...many items can be used as inclusions in clay.  Books and tutorials available on the web can help a lot in this area.  Experiment some, but you may want to research the items that can be included...remember, they have to go in the oven and not melt.
Many plastics can be covered with clay and not melt and many cannot.  I learned this lesson personally!  I've covered light switch plates and Bic ink pens and they hold up very well in the oven.  I tried once to cover an acrylic candy box and it didn't fare so well.  It melted and my project was not what I intended!  If you're unsure, you may want to test it in the oven before you do all the work with the clay and waste it.
Metal tins and boxes and things of that nature work well.  Clay will cling nicely to metal, plastic and glass.  Metal that hasn't been painted is easier to work with.
Glass works well also.  A glass bottle or vase that has a small opening will hold the heat inside.  You may want to cure for a shorter period of time and then cure again to cure for the entire required time to harden the clay.  If the glass gets too hot, the clay could crack.  (Again...I speak from experience!)
Wood can also be covered...however, depending on the type of wood and if there is a finish of any sort, the clay won't cling as easily as it does to glass or metal.  The little boxes in the craft store are harder to cover than a piece of oak or other type of hardwood.  Also, some of the wood pieces in the craft stores meant for painting are very thin and will warp in the oven.
More to come...

Polymer Clay 101 (cont.)

Parchment Paper used for cooking/backing is also very helpful.  When using a glass or ceramic surface, the clay will cling to the surface.  Sometimes you want this to happen.  Sometimes you don't.  When you don't, the parchment paper will not stick to the clay.  Using parchment paper when curing will prevent flat spots on the clay that you get when you put the clay directly on a metal pan/cookie sheet.
PC can be sanded & buffed and coated with a clear coating for high gloss shine.  A fine sandpaper or even a piece of denim can buff a bit of shine onto a clay bead. Makers of clay also have satin and glossy finishes available specifically for clay, but there are other products that can be used on clay as well.
Books are available for PC use -- for beginners, techniques, etc.  Many tutorials are also available on YouTube which can be very helpful when learning a new technique.
More to come...

Polymer Clay 101

Polymer Clay (PC) is a pliable "clay" that is essentially PVC.  It is not an earthen clay.  It does not dry out -- a little conditioning (kneading) and it's ready to form into any shape!  A pasta machine is used also to help condition and to make sheets of clay in variable thicknesses and to blend clay into any color.  Polymer Clay comes in 2 oz blocks (depending on the brand) or 1 lb. blocks.  My favorite clays are Premo and Pardo.  Pardo comes in small ball shaped pieces of clay in a plastic jar in a  little more than 2 oz and is slightly more expensive than Premo.  Premo comes in 2 oz blocks wrapped in cellophane.   PC can be ordered from many vendors online -- a google search will result in many options -- and also at craft stores like Hobby Lobby, JoAnn's and Michael's.
PC comes in many colors -- some with sparkles and inclusions.  A basic set of the primary colors (red, blue, yellow) along with white or pearl white, brown, & gold is a good starter set as many colors can be blended or partially blended for a wide range of color options.
The best way to learn about using PC is to play with it!  You will quickly see how conditioning works on the clay, the thinnest sheet from the pasta machine and thicknesses needed for particular projects.
A smooth dedicated work surface is a must.  A piece of glass (glass cutting board) or a large square ceramic tile works nicely. A cutting blade and Xacto knife are initial necessities.  Many tools can also be purchased online or at the craft stores.

More to come....