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More Wall Plates

MORE WALL PLATES:
After completing the 17 piece set for a customer recently (see previous post), I had the bug to come up with something new for my own kitchen...

 


This is what I came up with.  I have oil rubbed bronze fixtures and hardware (dark with a bit of copper edging).  And I wanted something to go with that. I also have a couple of drop lights over the island/counter that are also dark, but the shades are mission style, stained glass.  The colors in my kitchen are oak cabinets, green counter tops, tan walls (above chair rail) and brick red (under chair rail).  So, I wanted to continue the "warm" atmosphere in the kitchen and get rid of the plain ol' white wall plates.
I decided to paint the screws black and I liked it much better.

This is bronze and copper mica powders over black embossed clay.  You could use as little or as much mica powders as you liked in any color.  You could also use Inka Gold or alcohol inks.  Or...you could simply emboss black clay (or any color clay, for that matter) and gloss coat the finished product without using any powders or other applications.

So many possibilities!

Wall Plates

WALL PLATES

I just recently completed a request for 17 wall plates -- here are 15 of them!

These looked great using brown plates that already had brown screws, not white.

I covered the plate with a thin sheet of clay textured like "naugahide." I cured this layer, let it cool, then added the second layer in pieces textured like "tooled" leather, not covering the entire plate.  I cured the plate again (about 15 minutes 1st time and about 20 minutes the second time).  You have to be careful of air bubbles with the first layer. But it's easy to pierce them with the Xacto knife since this layer is textured as it is.  It's like camo for any puncture holes!

Be sure to cut out the screw  holes before curing...not so easy afterward and it looks neater if you make the holes in the soft clay.  You can use the screw head to make an impression and measure to be sure the opening will accommodate the screw.

After curing I gave a gloss coat to only the "tooled" leather parts. But you could clear coat the entire plate if you wanted.  I like the difference between the gloss and matte finish...visual interest.

An inexpensive way to upgrade your decor...if you make them yourself.  

A little time consuming, but worth the end result!!!

Finishes

I have tested and used a number of different glossy finishes looking for the "miracle" product to use forever more!   Not sure I've found that product...at least for every project and item, anyway.

Sculpey Gloss (also available in Satin finish) is a good product, but pretty expensive compared to other products that can be used with PC.

Studio gloss (by Sculpey I believe) is very hard to find now.  I don't know if it's been discontinued or if retailers in my local area have simply stopped carrying it.  It was probably my favorite. (I'm sure that's why I cannot find it anymore! LOL).  It can be heat set/dried in the oven and was made for use with clay.

Minwax PolyAcrylic is an inexpensive product that can be used on PC.  It is fairly thin, thinner than Sculpey, and can be brushed on.  I recommend a number of coats as it is not very thick.

Future floor polish (now Pledge with Future in it) is also a product that works well with PC. It is extremely thin, so a number of coats are required.  And it smells better than the others.  It cleans up well, like the Minwax and Sculpey, with water and soap.

Both the Minwax can and Future bottle will last a very long time for about $8 or so. Minwax can be purchased at the local hardware/Lowe's/Home Depot type stores.  The  Pledge with Future in it can be purchased at your grocery store/Walmart.   The Sculpey gloss is approx, $4 for a very small jar.  Sculpey also will not last very long after it has been opened and about half is used. Once air gets into the jar, it gets thick and cannot be used. I like the Sculpey product for use with the clay, but it cannot be heat set in the oven as the others can.
There are a couple other  products that have been discussed by other clayers as being good for clay.  I have not yet tried them, however.

I am attempting to perfect my sanding technique and buffing tools so as to not need a gloss finish applied after curing.  I've come close, but am not yet finished experimenting yet.  I don't expect this will be the ideal method for everything I do, but am hoping this will be the new way to get a high gloss sheen on my pen barrels.

If anyone has any suggestions or tips, I am open to hearing them.  Or if you have any questions about the finishes I've used, feel free to ask.

This is a pen I made (and am using myself as a "test" piece) that does not have a gloss coat applied.  It has been sanded and buffed.  However, it was buffed with a material that didn't hold up well at the high speed, so back to the drawing board.

 This is a pendant (used from the same clay) that was sanded & buffed as well. It also does not have a gloss finish applied to the clay.  Looks pretty good, but I'd like a bit more of a glass-like shine.

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Polymer Clay 101 (cont.)

Clay can be used to cover items (as discussed in previous posts) or alone.
Some things that can be covered are

• vases (received flowers and don't know what to do with the plain Jane vase?)
• clear glass votive candle holders or bases/dishes (cover the bottom)
• candle sticks, interesting shaped bottles (be careful of bottles that have raised lettering -- your clay will need to be thick enough so the wording doesn't come thru)
• metal trays (decorate the edges)
• metal tin/boxes (cover it all! inside & out - but plan ahead if you cover the inside of the lid -- make sure it will close -- as well as the edge that fits up into the lid)
• tool handles (cover your Xacto knife blade handle or knitting needles, ink pens, knife handles, etc.),
• Picture Frames
• salt & pepper shakers
• cooking oil dispensers
• light switch plates (always test plastics first!)
• wood pieces for signs
• cabinet knobs/pulls
• ashtrays (cover the outside!)
• jars and cans
• kitchen canisters
• container lids
• small planters

There are many items to cover!  Use your imagination.   Some plastics will melt...some woods are easier to cover than others and some thin pieces will warp.

Items not recommended:

• Toys for young children (we all know they put everything in their mouth!)
• Items meant for food
• Items that will get consistently dirty and need to be scrubbed clean (I haven't tested anything in the dishwasher...)  A damp cloth for cleaning is recommended.
• Items that won't fit in your oven! Duh!  :-)
• Items that are soft/flexible (some clays will be slightly flexible after curing and the thinner the piece the more flexible it may be, but it won't fold or bend very far without cracking)

Items in direct contact with food...

•  Mugs, drinking glasses, etc. (outside of dishes, bowls, etc. can be covered if used for display, but don't cover the surface that food touches.  Don't cover mugs and glasses that will be used for drinking.)
• Items for pets/amimals (if they eat it, they are eating plastic.  My dogs seem to love plastic -- bottle caps, etc.  I don't even feed my dogs out of plastic bowls).

Polymer Clay 101 (cont.)

This is an example of a glass jar covered in clay.  The wooden lid has a rubber ring for a tight fit.  The decorative "button" on the lid was cured then glued in place.  The lid could have been covered as the rubber ring can be removed.  Many glass jars with glass lids (canister type jars, etc.) have the harder plastic attached to the lid piece to make the jar airtight.  These can often be removed as well if you want to cover the glass lid. Be sure you are able to remove the plastic ring and replace it prior to covering with clay!

I especially like covering glass jars, bottles, vases, etc. as the clay clings nicely to the glass (as stated before), as portions of the glass can be left uncovered for interest (especially if the glass is colored rather than clear), stained glass paints can be incorporated onto the piece nicely, and the colors of the clay can be seen through the glass from the inside.  Also, a glass jar can be used to store wrapped candies and such after the inside has been cleaned as opposed to a clay-only container. Although I don't recommend any container with clay applied be used in direct contact with food.  I would use a decorative bowl to hold fruit or something as long as the inside of the bowl was not covered with clay -- only the outside.

One thing I have not tested, however...if any item covered in clay would hold up in the dishwasher.  If anyone reading has tested this, I would love to know the results!

More to come...

Polymer Clay 101

Polymer Clay (PC) is a pliable "clay" that is essentially PVC.  It is not an earthen clay.  It does not dry out -- a little conditioning (kneading) and it's ready to form into any shape!  A pasta machine is used also to help condition and to make sheets of clay in variable thicknesses and to blend clay into any color.  Polymer Clay comes in 2 oz blocks (depending on the brand) or 1 lb. blocks.  My favorite clays are Premo and Pardo.  Pardo comes in small ball shaped pieces of clay in a plastic jar in a  little more than 2 oz and is slightly more expensive than Premo.  Premo comes in 2 oz blocks wrapped in cellophane.   PC can be ordered from many vendors online -- a google search will result in many options -- and also at craft stores like Hobby Lobby, JoAnn's and Michael's.
PC comes in many colors -- some with sparkles and inclusions.  A basic set of the primary colors (red, blue, yellow) along with white or pearl white, brown, & gold is a good starter set as many colors can be blended or partially blended for a wide range of color options.
The best way to learn about using PC is to play with it!  You will quickly see how conditioning works on the clay, the thinnest sheet from the pasta machine and thicknesses needed for particular projects.
A smooth dedicated work surface is a must.  A piece of glass (glass cutting board) or a large square ceramic tile works nicely. A cutting blade and Xacto knife are initial necessities.  Many tools can also be purchased online or at the craft stores.

More to come....