Bullet Charm

Bullet Charm

1 - 45 Caliber Bullet Head 

A marble-size ball of Polymer Clay (color, your choice)

 1 - Pendant Bezel, Antique Copper (or silver, brass, or other...your choice). This one is approx. 1" in diameter and approx. 2mm deep..

Put a bit of liquid clay / bake and bond / polypaste, etc. in the bottom of the bezel.  Form the ball of clay (single color or mix of colors) and push it into the bezel to the desired shape (flat, rounded, etc.).  Just be sure the clay sits high enough in the bezel to envelope the bullet head.  This will depend on how thin the bullet head is (you decide when you cut it from the spent bullet.).

Push the bullet head into the center of the clay.  You will need to reshape the clay and push the clay up and around the bullet head to the height you want evenly around the bullet.

Smooth out finger prints and make sure the clay is not over the top of the bezel edge.

Cure the clay.

When cool, you can sand and buff the clay or you can apply a clear coat.  

The pendant can be put on a key chain split ring (key chain charm), on a chain or cord (necklace), on a ring for use on a range bag, purse, or jacket (zipper pull), etc. 

Other ideas:  Initials can be engraved in the clay above or below the bullet (or one initial on either side of the bullet), or Swarovski crystals could be incorporated into the clay for the girly girl.  The clay could also be textured with a pattern.

This one was made with liquid clay and mica powder...and a bullet head.  It's hard to capture in a photo, but the layers of mica powder and transparent clay give depth to this one!

Another Style of Bolt Action Pen...

Introducing the Bolt Action Tec Pen 

(A Great Father's Day or Graduation Gift!)

Here you get the "coolness" of the bolt action click mechanism in a techie style pen. 

This chrome Tec Pen has a soft touch stylus on the end.

Pen without the stylus is available as well upon request.

This pen is available in

• chrome (shown)
• 24K
• antique brass
• gun metal

 Bolt Action Detail

 Clip and Stylus Tip Detail featuring small screws for a technical look.

This pen was created in a black, gray, and white clay pattern layering each color then slicing the clay  and stacking the sections in a different direction and then rolling into a new clay sheet.

In a blue velveteen presentation box.  

This is a pen with more girth than a slimline.

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FREEDOM PEN

THE FREEDOM PEN

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I made this Virage Chrome Fountain Pen with 1776 engraved in the cap. I used a blue & pearl white mix, red, and pearl white.  I sold this pen to an individual in the Air Force who gave it to a friend. He contacted me to commission another pen for himself and told me he named the one he bought the "Freedom Pen."  I LOVE THAT!  So, I asked him if I could name the stars & stripes pens that I make "Freedom Pens." 

(He said yes.)

The following pen is the Freedom Pen I made for him.  This pen is straight blue (not blue & pearl white mixed), white (not pearl white), and red.  I used smaller stars and more of them and I "waved" the red & white stripes (so she will forever wave...get it??)

Anyhoo...I created the blue cap first and then added thinly sliced stars and rolled them smooth.  I did the same with the pen barrel...I created the red then added thin stripes and rolled until smooth.  I contoured the clay mostly before adding the white clay, but then finished it out after the stars and stripes were added.  It required a little extra sanding to get it completely smooth, but I think it turned out quite nice! 

Looking forward to coming up with a slightly different pattern for the next one!

More Wall Plates

MORE WALL PLATES:
After completing the 17 piece set for a customer recently (see previous post), I had the bug to come up with something new for my own kitchen...

 


This is what I came up with.  I have oil rubbed bronze fixtures and hardware (dark with a bit of copper edging).  And I wanted something to go with that. I also have a couple of drop lights over the island/counter that are also dark, but the shades are mission style, stained glass.  The colors in my kitchen are oak cabinets, green counter tops, tan walls (above chair rail) and brick red (under chair rail).  So, I wanted to continue the "warm" atmosphere in the kitchen and get rid of the plain ol' white wall plates.
I decided to paint the screws black and I liked it much better.

This is bronze and copper mica powders over black embossed clay.  You could use as little or as much mica powders as you liked in any color.  You could also use Inka Gold or alcohol inks.  Or...you could simply emboss black clay (or any color clay, for that matter) and gloss coat the finished product without using any powders or other applications.

So many possibilities!

Wall Plates

WALL PLATES

I just recently completed a request for 17 wall plates -- here are 15 of them!

These looked great using brown plates that already had brown screws, not white.

I covered the plate with a thin sheet of clay textured like "naugahide." I cured this layer, let it cool, then added the second layer in pieces textured like "tooled" leather, not covering the entire plate.  I cured the plate again (about 15 minutes 1st time and about 20 minutes the second time).  You have to be careful of air bubbles with the first layer. But it's easy to pierce them with the Xacto knife since this layer is textured as it is.  It's like camo for any puncture holes!

Be sure to cut out the screw  holes before curing...not so easy afterward and it looks neater if you make the holes in the soft clay.  You can use the screw head to make an impression and measure to be sure the opening will accommodate the screw.

After curing I gave a gloss coat to only the "tooled" leather parts. But you could clear coat the entire plate if you wanted.  I like the difference between the gloss and matte finish...visual interest.

An inexpensive way to upgrade your decor...if you make them yourself.  

A little time consuming, but worth the end result!!!

Bottle Stoppers

Bottle Stoppers are always a nice gift for the wine enthusiast or someone who likes to decorate.

Whether a seasonal theme, a hobby theme, or just a pretty design....

...whether small or large...

...there are so many options for creativity with bottle stoppers.
These stoppers are double sided for more clay-tivity!

These are stainless steel mini stoppers.  

Also available in Chrome.

Custom Orders Available.

The clay is cured directly on the stopper for a perfect fit.  All designs, powders, inks, or what-have-you are all placed on the clay while on the stopper.  The rubber withstands the curing process -- but don't forget about your stopper and leave it in the oven too long. That may dry out the rubber and cause it to crack.  Follow the instructions for baking the clay based on its thickness.  If you have clay so thick that you are concerned about the rubber piece, with a little effort you can remove the rubber piece and then replace it after curing or if you have a round cutter the same size as your stopper, you could cure the clay separately and not have the stopper in the oven at all -- then glue your clay medallion to the stopper.

Did you know that cured polymer can be carved??  This method lends to even more options for a bottle stopper.

There are other styles of bottle stoppers as well. They pose a bigger challenge to create, but it can be done!

PINS

PINS

A few pins made from some scrap clay. The shape is configured and finished on all sides and cured.   Then a pin back is added (using an adhesive like bake & bond or liquid clay) then covered with some more clay (here is where I add my "signature" stamp) and baked again.  

Below is a pin that matches a set of clip on earrings and a fun colorful pin.

Just about anything can be made into a pin.  The pin backs come in different sizes.  These are small.

(the back of the blue pin)

Buffing

Buffing is a bit more difficult as the material used and the tool used can either gouge the clay or not be of any help at all (i.e., a waste of time).  I tried using a rotary tool like nail technicians use (electronic file).  Kind of like a smaller version of a Dremel with sanding drums and buffing pads.  I found this to be a great tool when dry sanding, but not so much for buffing. It just didn't go fast enough to get a shine.  I could buff with a  piece of denim and get about the same shine (which is fine if you want a satin finish instead of glossy).  However, even in sanding, I only have a couple different grits of sand paper...nothing like the micro-mesh!   So, I tried my dremel and used the cotton buffing/polishing wheel that comes with the kit.  Bad idea. It gouged my clay. the felt polishing wheel that comes with the kit was also too harsh for the clay.  So, I set about looking for information about buffing specifically.  I found some information, but nothing was "complete." Words like "modified" were used in a description, but they didn't offer any information about how they "modified" the tool.

I tried cutting up an old, soft t-shirt into circles and putting those on my dremel spindle.  It worked pretty good, actually. The problem was 1) the hole at the center wallowed out and they eventually tore and flew off the dremel, 2) the material that stayed on the dremel just frayed and wore out so quickly that I would have to use all my t-shirts to polish all my projects -- not acceptable, and 3) the lint!! OMG the LINT!!!  My kitchen was covered in white fuzz  and my window was open so the screen now has white fuzzy lint all over it and needs to be taken off and cleaned.  UGGGH!  (I don't like creating more work for myself.)  So, I felt I had gotten closer to a solution, but my t-shirts were NOT going to be THE solution.

I found some other material that I thought would work but it also flew off the spindle almost immediately.  So, I decided the center hole would need to be reinforced.  This meant sewing.  Ewwww!  I don't sew.  And then I found someone who makes just what I was looking for and reinforced the center hole by sewing and everything!  She sells them on Etsy for $12 for a pack of 3.  My only concern with this is not knowing yet how long each one will last, $12 for 3 could get pricey over time.   But for now, I have found what I've been looking for.  Once the edges of these get frayed, they really polish nicely.  They do produce a little lint (kind of gets in your nose!), but nothing like the t-shirt material!  Thank goodness...That was bad inside or outside!
If you would like to visit her shop it's:  2GoodClayers on Etsy.  She's very helpful and nice.  She ships out of Canada.

So...here are some photos of some items that I sanded (micro mesh) and buffed using the Dremel and 2GoodClayers' buffing pads:

When buffing with these you barely need to touch the piece to the edge of the buffing pad.  No need to push against it.  Hold onto your piece tightly, do not have anyone standing near you while you buff, and wear safety glasses. 

If you order any of these buffing pads from her, please let her know you learned of her shop/items here.
Much appreciated!!

Sanding

I have been working on my sanding & buffing methods.

The micro-mesh sanding system which includes the equivalent to dry sand paper 1500 grit down to 12,000 grit equivalent.  You can get it with or without the sanding block.  Use it with a small tub of water to wet sand.  Add a drop or two of dish detergent in the water.  No need to make bubbles, just having the soap in the water helps with surface tension while sanding. Dip your micro mesh sheet in the water and sand, dipping as you go occasionally to rinse off the clay particles and pick up some more water/soap.  Change the sheets incrementally until you get to the grit you want to finish with and you have the smooth finish you want.  Rinse your piece and allow it to dry.   I am not the only clayer who uses this system.  It is much easier, quicker, and less messy than dry sanding...not to mention healthier!  If you do dry sand, use a mask and sand outside away from dogs/pets!

Depending on the shape and size of the piece and how the piece will be used/handled.  I'm not so concerned with applying a clear coat to a pendant or home decor item, although some items look nicer buffed and polished.  My primary reason for searching for a way to get a glass shine without using a clear coat was so I could avoid applying a coat to my pen barrels.   Pens are handled a lot if they are used regularly and I don't want to have to worry if the clear coat will peel, rub off, or yellow.  I don't believe any of the clear coats discussed in the previous post yellow, but I honestly haven't tested a piece for 20 years -- particularly a pen that is in contact with skin oils frequently.   My husband uses a pen I made while he's at work. He's outside most of the time, he pulls the pen out of his shirt pocket about 5000 times a day (which is why I took away his twist pen and made a click pen for him! He was using the clip on the twist pen to open the pen with one hand) and his hands are dirty and his shirts get sweaty. The pen barrels look like the underside of a horse saddle!  (Not good advertisement, I know!!) But he likes his pen!
Okay...I digress...
So....I would like to avoid the entire issue of clear coating my pens.  This also means I have to eliminate a few process options when making pens.  If I use any mica powders, surface applications like paste or metal powder, etc. I would have to seal it with a clear coat.  This would be fine if a customer is custom ordering a high end pen (fountain pen for a desk, for instance) that will only be used occasionally or will only be displayed and not used at all.  These processes would not be suitable for a pen that is used even somewhat regularly, placed in a purse, etc.  So, unless I am aware of a pen being purchased for display only, I will not use these applications and therefore will not need a clear coat.

Working with clay is a constant improving, learning experience, etc.  Stay tuned...

Oh My Goodness!

Oh my goodness...it has been WAY too long since I've posted anything here on the blog.  It has been a great time since Christmas (with the new addition of the niece and nephew to the family), and it has been a stressful time (at work and with some home repairs).
I haven't done as much with the clay as I had planned over the winter months, but some badly needed organization has been completed and am hopefully going to be in a position to do a lot of creating this spring...and hopefully get the home repairs completed at the same time!  Whew!  A busy time!

Easter has come and gone...I hope everyone had a blessed day yesterday! It's still not very warm here where we are, but the grass is getting green, so hopefully it won't be long before it feels like Easter!

So, in honor of Easter, here's one of the creations I was able to complete this past weekend...

 

This bunny is all clay except for the whiskers (fishing line) and the eyes (glass beads).  Oh...and a few toothpick halves inserted to secure his head and each ear.  Other than that...solid clay.  This bunny was made with pearl white clay, which I probably will not do again.  The pearl clays are so soft that it is more difficult to retain the shape while holding the figure and keeping fingerprints out of the clay.  

I only gloss coated select parts of the bunny - the pink portion of the ears, the cheeks, the nose, the teeth, the egg, and the paw pads. 

He is my first animal "sculpture."  Not too bad for numero uno.  But I do (as will always) see areas that could use improvement. 

Instructions:  He was simply built by shaping the body first, adding the feet/legs and shaping the toes, then adding the "arms" and shaping the fingers.  Then separately the head was formed, the cheeks added and the teeth.  The triangular pink nose was attached and then the strip above the nose to round out his forehead.  The eyes were added by sinking glass seed beads into the clay and then fishing line inserted into the cheeks.  The whiskers were removed for curing and then glued back into the holes once hardened.  The head was then attached to the body using a piece of toothpick to serve as a small "spine."  The ears were formed with pink clay added and shaped before being gently attached to the head, again, using pieces of toothpicks for support.  And finally the tail.  The tail is the same white/glitter clay the cheeks are made with. Many tiny holes were made in the tail before attaching.  The hands were pulled away from his body enough to insert the clay egg.  As he is pretty thick, I baked him for more than an hour -- keeping watch on his ears as they are thinner and didn't want  them to burn.  You could cure the body partially then complete the curing once the head is attached. Just watch your series of bake times based on the thickness of the head.

I"m debating on what do make next -- a frog, turtle, maybe a mouse??  Stay tuned...

 KALEIDOSCOPE

This is a  kaleidoscope in the shape of an egg.  It rests on a metal footed stand.  It contains multi-colored acrylic stones in the compartment at one end.  Look into the eye piece...through the mirrors...& turn the kaleidoscope in your hand to see the pretty patterns.

This project required assembling the insides of the kaleidoscope and choosing the number of acrylic stones so they would move around freely but fill enough space to make the correct size patterns.

The outside is a wooden "egg" covered in clay with the mirrors placed inside the wooden "egg."

It's a very unique gift...particularly being a one-of-a-kind-item.

It takes a little time to complete this project as you aren't only applying the clay, but assembling the kaleidoscope.  This would be a great desk piece for someone who has everything they need -- an executive, a boss, a co-worker, teacher, mentor, etc.

The clay was applied in sections (gold mica) and a mix of beige, white and black were added by small pieces as the "veining."  Then gold metal powder was added to the "veining" sparingly for a touch of "fools gold" effect.  A copper paste was rubbed onto the textured portions of the gold clay sections.  All clay areas were clear coated as this is an item that will be handled somewhat.

Mini Stylus

This is a great little tool!  It can be attached to a key chain or directly to your touch screen device. It comes with a cord and a plug that fits into the audio jack of your phone, iPad, etc. so you always have it with you.  It has a soft tip that mimics your finger on the touch screen, but is smaller than your finger.  These come in 24K Gold or Chrome and are quite easy to make.  The coverable tube is a bit small, as you can see, which poses a little bit of a challenge, but isn't difficult.  Quick, easy and economical to make, they make a great gift for a co-worker -- not too personal, but very useful -- or anyone.
These were made by laying colors, creating a textured pattern, and slicing off the raised portions of the clay to create a 2 or 3 color pattern.  Then the clay is applied to a brass tube and cured. The ends are pressed onto the tube and voila!  You have a handy dandy mini stylus!

Elegant Sierra

This pen is soooo easy to make.  Accepts Parker style refills and is a very classy pen.  This pen comes in many different metal finishes.  One single tube covered in clay and only one part requires pressing -- the rest are threaded.  It has a nice heft, but isn't a large pen -- great for men or women.
This one was made with 2 colors -- red and black -- layering the colors and making a textured pattern (impressing one color into the underlying color) then slicing off layers to get a 2-tone pattern.  The black with the red really stands out and looks great with the black titanium finish on the pen shown.  Depending on the process you choose to mix the colors (or not mix any colors) will depend on the length of time required to produce a pen like this.  One clay barrel is going to take less time than a pen with 2 barrels, but the process of getting this clay effect will add production time.

Bullet Cartridge Pens

These are great pens for the gun enthusiast, hunter, or military guy/gal.  They write nicely and are quite the conversation piece.

This is a pen made with 4 clay colors -- copper red, black, white, & beige -- by layering the colors, creating a textured pattern of your choice, and then slicing off the raised portions of the pattern to as many layers as you like to get the desired effect.  Run the clay through the pasta machine to smooth out the clay and you have a sheet of clay that can be applied to the pen tube. Shape the clay to the desired thickness, trim excess clay, and cure. Sand, buff & clear coat and press the pen together! It accepts a Parker style refill and writes very nicely.  These pens come in 24K Gold plating (shown), chrome, or gun metal. Matching pencils are available in 24K Gold or Chrome.  This is a click pen, but is also available in a twist pen version. It features a softer and quieter "click" than many click pens, also.


These are replicas of a 30 caliber cartridges. These are not actual fired cartridges. The optional rose gold tip (shown) can be installed on the pens as well as deer head, rifle or musket clips rather than the standard "scope" style clip (shown).  A 50 caliber machine gun pen is available that is an actual fired cartridge.  The 30 caliber pens are also available in a larger "magnum" size -- about 10% larger than the one shown (available in twist pen version only).  Many bullet cartridge pen styles available...if this is your thing!

Adding a photo of the pen with the rifle clip added:

 

Gift & Keepsake Box

Again...my apologies for the crude pictures, but I have been so very busy getting ready for the Flea Market that I haven't had the time to spend on decent photographs.  BUT hopefully many of these will sell at the Flea Market and I won't be listing them online for sale.

This tin isn't as elaborate as some I've made, but I kind of liked the simplicity of it -- particularly with the phrases.

These make great keepsake boxes or gift boxes.  They are hinged-lid tins (like the kind the mints come in, but I ordered them from a supplier, so they were never used for mints). I cover them in clay and embellish them and then put some inserts inside - foam craft sheets cut to size.

These need to be planned out somewhat or else you won't have any way to hold the tin while you cover it! Cover the top first while holding it by the bottom.  You can close the lid or leave it open.  Cure the clay.   Then cover the bottom using the closed lid as a guide. You don't want to cover the bottom completely on the sides or the lid won't close.  You'll also have to cut out around the hinges on the lid and bottom so the lid has room to open.  You can either make the clay real thin below the hinges or cut it away completely.  Just test it before you cure or your clay will break off when you open the box after curing.  Just remember the clay on the lid will be in the oven twice!  (or more depending on how you layer it.)  Don't overbake!  It will crack for sure! 

I like the ball feet on the bottom, but it doesn't have to have feet or it can have a different style other than ball feet.

A great gift box to make for a special gift -- and it doesn't need wrapping.  You could tie it up in tissue paper or netting or just put it under the tree (unless you have dogs...they like to eat the clay!!!  This is NOT good! Very bad for the puppies! And it doesn't leave the box looking very nice either!)  Just a tip.

This particular box would make a great gift box for a wedding gift from groom to bride, etc.

Slimline Textured Pen

This is a "fun" slimline pen.  Copper finish with brown clay and bits of copper and turquoise clay to give it a "speckled" look.  It is also textured in a pattern that you might find in tooled leather.  Sometimes texturing the pens is not so easy.  Once the clay is on the pen component at the correct thickness, putting the texture in the clay can push the clay "out of round."  This can be frustrating since you can't smooth the clay or roll the clay back into shape without losing the texture.  It can become a viscous cycle!  If you have a good rubber stamp with deep and thin raised areas and is also large enough (longer than the pen in size) it is much easier.  I've found that using something that fits inside the tube that is longer than the tube helps to roll the clay over the stamp at a more even pressure while keeping my fingers off the clay and pressing out the impression that was just created. I hold the "dowel" at the ends while I roll, but whatever you use as a "dowel" has to fit well in the tube or there will be too much "play" as you roll it.  Rolling the stamp over the clay doesn't work as you will smash the clay and you will be starting over!  Also, if you don't already have a baking rack -- usually used for curing beads -- it is VERY useful when curing the pen components.  Flat sides are undesirable!  However if you do not have one, just be sure to use parchment paper between your clay and the tray/pan that you use in the oven.  Slight imperfections in the roundness of the clay can be overcome when sanding, but it's best to avoid that altogether from the beginning.

Purse Hanger

I LOVE these!  Purse Hangers are a wonderful item!  They are small and fit in your purse...they are VERY useful...they are fashionable...they are like jewelry...they are an awesome gift!  They are relatively easy to make as well.  Of course, the item is "made" by a company, but they are easy to "decorate" and make very interesting.  (These always spark conversation with people at a neighboring table at a restaurant!)  There are different styles. This one folds into a circle.  Simply add clay to the center (the center is depressed to fill with clay, resin, whatever!  The holder unfolds and holds your purse off the dirty floor!  The back is covered in a rubber pad that grips the table without scratching it.  A magnet holds the hook in place when not in use.
I made this one with a mix of clay and added wire and rhinestones and beads for decoration.  After the clay was cured, I gloss coated it and heat set it, but then I added a thicker clear coat so that it filled in around the wire, stones and beads to make it smooth to the touch.  If you use resin or MagiGloss, this would be an ideal project to use those products.  Great item for a lot of one-of-a-kind gifts!