Buffing

Buffing is a bit more difficult as the material used and the tool used can either gouge the clay or not be of any help at all (i.e., a waste of time).  I tried using a rotary tool like nail technicians use (electronic file).  Kind of like a smaller version of a Dremel with sanding drums and buffing pads.  I found this to be a great tool when dry sanding, but not so much for buffing. It just didn't go fast enough to get a shine.  I could buff with a  piece of denim and get about the same shine (which is fine if you want a satin finish instead of glossy).  However, even in sanding, I only have a couple different grits of sand paper...nothing like the micro-mesh!   So, I tried my dremel and used the cotton buffing/polishing wheel that comes with the kit.  Bad idea. It gouged my clay. the felt polishing wheel that comes with the kit was also too harsh for the clay.  So, I set about looking for information about buffing specifically.  I found some information, but nothing was "complete." Words like "modified" were used in a description, but they didn't offer any information about how they "modified" the tool.

I tried cutting up an old, soft t-shirt into circles and putting those on my dremel spindle.  It worked pretty good, actually. The problem was 1) the hole at the center wallowed out and they eventually tore and flew off the dremel, 2) the material that stayed on the dremel just frayed and wore out so quickly that I would have to use all my t-shirts to polish all my projects -- not acceptable, and 3) the lint!! OMG the LINT!!!  My kitchen was covered in white fuzz  and my window was open so the screen now has white fuzzy lint all over it and needs to be taken off and cleaned.  UGGGH!  (I don't like creating more work for myself.)  So, I felt I had gotten closer to a solution, but my t-shirts were NOT going to be THE solution.

I found some other material that I thought would work but it also flew off the spindle almost immediately.  So, I decided the center hole would need to be reinforced.  This meant sewing.  Ewwww!  I don't sew.  And then I found someone who makes just what I was looking for and reinforced the center hole by sewing and everything!  She sells them on Etsy for $12 for a pack of 3.  My only concern with this is not knowing yet how long each one will last, $12 for 3 could get pricey over time.   But for now, I have found what I've been looking for.  Once the edges of these get frayed, they really polish nicely.  They do produce a little lint (kind of gets in your nose!), but nothing like the t-shirt material!  Thank goodness...That was bad inside or outside!
If you would like to visit her shop it's:  2GoodClayers on Etsy.  She's very helpful and nice.  She ships out of Canada.

So...here are some photos of some items that I sanded (micro mesh) and buffed using the Dremel and 2GoodClayers' buffing pads:

When buffing with these you barely need to touch the piece to the edge of the buffing pad.  No need to push against it.  Hold onto your piece tightly, do not have anyone standing near you while you buff, and wear safety glasses. 

If you order any of these buffing pads from her, please let her know you learned of her shop/items here.
Much appreciated!!

Sanding

I have been working on my sanding & buffing methods.

The micro-mesh sanding system which includes the equivalent to dry sand paper 1500 grit down to 12,000 grit equivalent.  You can get it with or without the sanding block.  Use it with a small tub of water to wet sand.  Add a drop or two of dish detergent in the water.  No need to make bubbles, just having the soap in the water helps with surface tension while sanding. Dip your micro mesh sheet in the water and sand, dipping as you go occasionally to rinse off the clay particles and pick up some more water/soap.  Change the sheets incrementally until you get to the grit you want to finish with and you have the smooth finish you want.  Rinse your piece and allow it to dry.   I am not the only clayer who uses this system.  It is much easier, quicker, and less messy than dry sanding...not to mention healthier!  If you do dry sand, use a mask and sand outside away from dogs/pets!

Depending on the shape and size of the piece and how the piece will be used/handled.  I'm not so concerned with applying a clear coat to a pendant or home decor item, although some items look nicer buffed and polished.  My primary reason for searching for a way to get a glass shine without using a clear coat was so I could avoid applying a coat to my pen barrels.   Pens are handled a lot if they are used regularly and I don't want to have to worry if the clear coat will peel, rub off, or yellow.  I don't believe any of the clear coats discussed in the previous post yellow, but I honestly haven't tested a piece for 20 years -- particularly a pen that is in contact with skin oils frequently.   My husband uses a pen I made while he's at work. He's outside most of the time, he pulls the pen out of his shirt pocket about 5000 times a day (which is why I took away his twist pen and made a click pen for him! He was using the clip on the twist pen to open the pen with one hand) and his hands are dirty and his shirts get sweaty. The pen barrels look like the underside of a horse saddle!  (Not good advertisement, I know!!) But he likes his pen!
Okay...I digress...
So....I would like to avoid the entire issue of clear coating my pens.  This also means I have to eliminate a few process options when making pens.  If I use any mica powders, surface applications like paste or metal powder, etc. I would have to seal it with a clear coat.  This would be fine if a customer is custom ordering a high end pen (fountain pen for a desk, for instance) that will only be used occasionally or will only be displayed and not used at all.  These processes would not be suitable for a pen that is used even somewhat regularly, placed in a purse, etc.  So, unless I am aware of a pen being purchased for display only, I will not use these applications and therefore will not need a clear coat.

Working with clay is a constant improving, learning experience, etc.  Stay tuned...

Finishes

I have tested and used a number of different glossy finishes looking for the "miracle" product to use forever more!   Not sure I've found that product...at least for every project and item, anyway.

Sculpey Gloss (also available in Satin finish) is a good product, but pretty expensive compared to other products that can be used with PC.

Studio gloss (by Sculpey I believe) is very hard to find now.  I don't know if it's been discontinued or if retailers in my local area have simply stopped carrying it.  It was probably my favorite. (I'm sure that's why I cannot find it anymore! LOL).  It can be heat set/dried in the oven and was made for use with clay.

Minwax PolyAcrylic is an inexpensive product that can be used on PC.  It is fairly thin, thinner than Sculpey, and can be brushed on.  I recommend a number of coats as it is not very thick.

Future floor polish (now Pledge with Future in it) is also a product that works well with PC. It is extremely thin, so a number of coats are required.  And it smells better than the others.  It cleans up well, like the Minwax and Sculpey, with water and soap.

Both the Minwax can and Future bottle will last a very long time for about $8 or so. Minwax can be purchased at the local hardware/Lowe's/Home Depot type stores.  The  Pledge with Future in it can be purchased at your grocery store/Walmart.   The Sculpey gloss is approx, $4 for a very small jar.  Sculpey also will not last very long after it has been opened and about half is used. Once air gets into the jar, it gets thick and cannot be used. I like the Sculpey product for use with the clay, but it cannot be heat set in the oven as the others can.
There are a couple other  products that have been discussed by other clayers as being good for clay.  I have not yet tried them, however.

I am attempting to perfect my sanding technique and buffing tools so as to not need a gloss finish applied after curing.  I've come close, but am not yet finished experimenting yet.  I don't expect this will be the ideal method for everything I do, but am hoping this will be the new way to get a high gloss sheen on my pen barrels.

If anyone has any suggestions or tips, I am open to hearing them.  Or if you have any questions about the finishes I've used, feel free to ask.

This is a pen I made (and am using myself as a "test" piece) that does not have a gloss coat applied.  It has been sanded and buffed.  However, it was buffed with a material that didn't hold up well at the high speed, so back to the drawing board.

 This is a pendant (used from the same clay) that was sanded & buffed as well. It also does not have a gloss finish applied to the clay.  Looks pretty good, but I'd like a bit more of a glass-like shine.

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STYLUS KEY CHAIN - LONG VERSION

 STYLUS KEY CHAIN

With a plug to store the stylus in your phone jack.

 This kit normally comes with a much shorter shaft.  I swapped the shorter tube with a tube meant for a slimline pen so that it would be longer and easier to hold.  

The rubber tip mimicks your finger, but allows you to be more precise in what you are selecting on your smartphone (or tablet, etc.) as it is smaller than your finger.

This particular one features a mix of turquoise and pearl white clay and a chrome finish.  

Also available in 24K Gold plating.

Slimline Textured Pen

This is a "fun" slimline pen.  Copper finish with brown clay and bits of copper and turquoise clay to give it a "speckled" look.  It is also textured in a pattern that you might find in tooled leather.  Sometimes texturing the pens is not so easy.  Once the clay is on the pen component at the correct thickness, putting the texture in the clay can push the clay "out of round."  This can be frustrating since you can't smooth the clay or roll the clay back into shape without losing the texture.  It can become a viscous cycle!  If you have a good rubber stamp with deep and thin raised areas and is also large enough (longer than the pen in size) it is much easier.  I've found that using something that fits inside the tube that is longer than the tube helps to roll the clay over the stamp at a more even pressure while keeping my fingers off the clay and pressing out the impression that was just created. I hold the "dowel" at the ends while I roll, but whatever you use as a "dowel" has to fit well in the tube or there will be too much "play" as you roll it.  Rolling the stamp over the clay doesn't work as you will smash the clay and you will be starting over!  Also, if you don't already have a baking rack -- usually used for curing beads -- it is VERY useful when curing the pen components.  Flat sides are undesirable!  However if you do not have one, just be sure to use parchment paper between your clay and the tray/pan that you use in the oven.  Slight imperfections in the roundness of the clay can be overcome when sanding, but it's best to avoid that altogether from the beginning.

Pondering...

I seem to have reached an impass...hmmmm...
I have been working less with the clay the last few weeks and have been spending some time searching...my brain & my creative bone...trying to decide if I need to change, or narrow, my direction or keep doing what I've been doing.  I have been making a number of different types of clay items...which I have thoroughly enjoyed...but am wondering if I should focus on a more specific type of item or not.  Jewelry, wall plates, vases/bottles, tin boxes, and other decor items etc. as a collective...is this too broad a spectrum? Or would narrowing the spectrum stifle creativity?  Hmmmm...  Pondering....

Ink Pen

This is an ink pen I covered recently.  I've had difficulty finding the right pen that will work.  Some won't hold up in the heat, the ones with a cap (rather than retractable or twisting) pose a problem because the cap won't fit on the pen after it has been covered, and sometimes the retractable ones work great other than working around the clip and I had one melt enough on the inside to not allow the "clicker" to retract after curing.
Metal twist pens would be ideal, but are generally more expensive.  Metal retractable pens would be great if the plastic inside will withstand the heat.  The bic round stick pens are great -- they hold up while curing and are perfectly round which makes it easier, however, as stated above, the cap cannot be used after covering, so the tips are exposed and prone to drying out or marking the inside of  your purse.
If anyone has a suggestion for a pen that would be ideal for this project, please let me know!  I think they are a great usable item!

Polymer Clay 101 (cont.)

One difficult thing to master with clay is fingerprints!  Or, rather, NO fingerprints!  As the clay is conditioned and worked, the warmer it gets from handling it.  The warmer it gets, the softer and stickier it gets.  Some colors of clay seem to be softer and sticker also (deep colors usually).  The softer it gets the more fingerprints appear.  One thing to consider before starting is make a plan of action.  If you are covering a bottle for example, plan to apply the clay to the bottom part of the bottle while you hold the bottle by the neck.  Finish that area and cure the clay for a short period of time. (Do not cure it for the entire time as it will need to be cured again.)  Then when the clay is cured, you can hold the bottle by that portion and complete the bottle neck.
If you are creating a pendant for a necklace or some other item that you cannot avoid touching the clay, as the clay gets warmer and softer, stop for a few minutes.  Let the clay cool off and firm up a bit.  You can even put it in the refrigerator if needed.  Also, as residue is left on your hands from the soft clay, wash/wipe your hands frequently as you work.
For a few stubborn prints, very very lightly smooth them over with your finger.  Lightly "swipe" your finger over the clay so your finger is never still and not moving while touching the clay.  Another trick is to keep a bowl of water or a very wet towel near your work area.  Wet your finger and smooth the fingerprints.  This helps keep the clay from sticking to your finger.  Light fingerprints will not be visible in the finished piece if you are applying a gloss coat. However, any prominent fingerprints (and all if possible) should be smoothed away as they are quite unsightly.
More to come...