More Wall Plates

MORE WALL PLATES:
After completing the 17 piece set for a customer recently (see previous post), I had the bug to come up with something new for my own kitchen...

 


This is what I came up with.  I have oil rubbed bronze fixtures and hardware (dark with a bit of copper edging).  And I wanted something to go with that. I also have a couple of drop lights over the island/counter that are also dark, but the shades are mission style, stained glass.  The colors in my kitchen are oak cabinets, green counter tops, tan walls (above chair rail) and brick red (under chair rail).  So, I wanted to continue the "warm" atmosphere in the kitchen and get rid of the plain ol' white wall plates.
I decided to paint the screws black and I liked it much better.

This is bronze and copper mica powders over black embossed clay.  You could use as little or as much mica powders as you liked in any color.  You could also use Inka Gold or alcohol inks.  Or...you could simply emboss black clay (or any color clay, for that matter) and gloss coat the finished product without using any powders or other applications.

So many possibilities!

Wall Plates

WALL PLATES

I just recently completed a request for 17 wall plates -- here are 15 of them!

These looked great using brown plates that already had brown screws, not white.

I covered the plate with a thin sheet of clay textured like "naugahide." I cured this layer, let it cool, then added the second layer in pieces textured like "tooled" leather, not covering the entire plate.  I cured the plate again (about 15 minutes 1st time and about 20 minutes the second time).  You have to be careful of air bubbles with the first layer. But it's easy to pierce them with the Xacto knife since this layer is textured as it is.  It's like camo for any puncture holes!

Be sure to cut out the screw  holes before curing...not so easy afterward and it looks neater if you make the holes in the soft clay.  You can use the screw head to make an impression and measure to be sure the opening will accommodate the screw.

After curing I gave a gloss coat to only the "tooled" leather parts. But you could clear coat the entire plate if you wanted.  I like the difference between the gloss and matte finish...visual interest.

An inexpensive way to upgrade your decor...if you make them yourself.  

A little time consuming, but worth the end result!!!

PINS

PINS

A few pins made from some scrap clay. The shape is configured and finished on all sides and cured.   Then a pin back is added (using an adhesive like bake & bond or liquid clay) then covered with some more clay (here is where I add my "signature" stamp) and baked again.  

Below is a pin that matches a set of clip on earrings and a fun colorful pin.

Just about anything can be made into a pin.  The pin backs come in different sizes.  These are small.

(the back of the blue pin)

Buffing

Buffing is a bit more difficult as the material used and the tool used can either gouge the clay or not be of any help at all (i.e., a waste of time).  I tried using a rotary tool like nail technicians use (electronic file).  Kind of like a smaller version of a Dremel with sanding drums and buffing pads.  I found this to be a great tool when dry sanding, but not so much for buffing. It just didn't go fast enough to get a shine.  I could buff with a  piece of denim and get about the same shine (which is fine if you want a satin finish instead of glossy).  However, even in sanding, I only have a couple different grits of sand paper...nothing like the micro-mesh!   So, I tried my dremel and used the cotton buffing/polishing wheel that comes with the kit.  Bad idea. It gouged my clay. the felt polishing wheel that comes with the kit was also too harsh for the clay.  So, I set about looking for information about buffing specifically.  I found some information, but nothing was "complete." Words like "modified" were used in a description, but they didn't offer any information about how they "modified" the tool.

I tried cutting up an old, soft t-shirt into circles and putting those on my dremel spindle.  It worked pretty good, actually. The problem was 1) the hole at the center wallowed out and they eventually tore and flew off the dremel, 2) the material that stayed on the dremel just frayed and wore out so quickly that I would have to use all my t-shirts to polish all my projects -- not acceptable, and 3) the lint!! OMG the LINT!!!  My kitchen was covered in white fuzz  and my window was open so the screen now has white fuzzy lint all over it and needs to be taken off and cleaned.  UGGGH!  (I don't like creating more work for myself.)  So, I felt I had gotten closer to a solution, but my t-shirts were NOT going to be THE solution.

I found some other material that I thought would work but it also flew off the spindle almost immediately.  So, I decided the center hole would need to be reinforced.  This meant sewing.  Ewwww!  I don't sew.  And then I found someone who makes just what I was looking for and reinforced the center hole by sewing and everything!  She sells them on Etsy for $12 for a pack of 3.  My only concern with this is not knowing yet how long each one will last, $12 for 3 could get pricey over time.   But for now, I have found what I've been looking for.  Once the edges of these get frayed, they really polish nicely.  They do produce a little lint (kind of gets in your nose!), but nothing like the t-shirt material!  Thank goodness...That was bad inside or outside!
If you would like to visit her shop it's:  2GoodClayers on Etsy.  She's very helpful and nice.  She ships out of Canada.

So...here are some photos of some items that I sanded (micro mesh) and buffed using the Dremel and 2GoodClayers' buffing pads:

When buffing with these you barely need to touch the piece to the edge of the buffing pad.  No need to push against it.  Hold onto your piece tightly, do not have anyone standing near you while you buff, and wear safety glasses. 

If you order any of these buffing pads from her, please let her know you learned of her shop/items here.
Much appreciated!!

Sanding

I have been working on my sanding & buffing methods.

The micro-mesh sanding system which includes the equivalent to dry sand paper 1500 grit down to 12,000 grit equivalent.  You can get it with or without the sanding block.  Use it with a small tub of water to wet sand.  Add a drop or two of dish detergent in the water.  No need to make bubbles, just having the soap in the water helps with surface tension while sanding. Dip your micro mesh sheet in the water and sand, dipping as you go occasionally to rinse off the clay particles and pick up some more water/soap.  Change the sheets incrementally until you get to the grit you want to finish with and you have the smooth finish you want.  Rinse your piece and allow it to dry.   I am not the only clayer who uses this system.  It is much easier, quicker, and less messy than dry sanding...not to mention healthier!  If you do dry sand, use a mask and sand outside away from dogs/pets!

Depending on the shape and size of the piece and how the piece will be used/handled.  I'm not so concerned with applying a clear coat to a pendant or home decor item, although some items look nicer buffed and polished.  My primary reason for searching for a way to get a glass shine without using a clear coat was so I could avoid applying a coat to my pen barrels.   Pens are handled a lot if they are used regularly and I don't want to have to worry if the clear coat will peel, rub off, or yellow.  I don't believe any of the clear coats discussed in the previous post yellow, but I honestly haven't tested a piece for 20 years -- particularly a pen that is in contact with skin oils frequently.   My husband uses a pen I made while he's at work. He's outside most of the time, he pulls the pen out of his shirt pocket about 5000 times a day (which is why I took away his twist pen and made a click pen for him! He was using the clip on the twist pen to open the pen with one hand) and his hands are dirty and his shirts get sweaty. The pen barrels look like the underside of a horse saddle!  (Not good advertisement, I know!!) But he likes his pen!
Okay...I digress...
So....I would like to avoid the entire issue of clear coating my pens.  This also means I have to eliminate a few process options when making pens.  If I use any mica powders, surface applications like paste or metal powder, etc. I would have to seal it with a clear coat.  This would be fine if a customer is custom ordering a high end pen (fountain pen for a desk, for instance) that will only be used occasionally or will only be displayed and not used at all.  These processes would not be suitable for a pen that is used even somewhat regularly, placed in a purse, etc.  So, unless I am aware of a pen being purchased for display only, I will not use these applications and therefore will not need a clear coat.

Working with clay is a constant improving, learning experience, etc.  Stay tuned...

Finishes

I have tested and used a number of different glossy finishes looking for the "miracle" product to use forever more!   Not sure I've found that product...at least for every project and item, anyway.

Sculpey Gloss (also available in Satin finish) is a good product, but pretty expensive compared to other products that can be used with PC.

Studio gloss (by Sculpey I believe) is very hard to find now.  I don't know if it's been discontinued or if retailers in my local area have simply stopped carrying it.  It was probably my favorite. (I'm sure that's why I cannot find it anymore! LOL).  It can be heat set/dried in the oven and was made for use with clay.

Minwax PolyAcrylic is an inexpensive product that can be used on PC.  It is fairly thin, thinner than Sculpey, and can be brushed on.  I recommend a number of coats as it is not very thick.

Future floor polish (now Pledge with Future in it) is also a product that works well with PC. It is extremely thin, so a number of coats are required.  And it smells better than the others.  It cleans up well, like the Minwax and Sculpey, with water and soap.

Both the Minwax can and Future bottle will last a very long time for about $8 or so. Minwax can be purchased at the local hardware/Lowe's/Home Depot type stores.  The  Pledge with Future in it can be purchased at your grocery store/Walmart.   The Sculpey gloss is approx, $4 for a very small jar.  Sculpey also will not last very long after it has been opened and about half is used. Once air gets into the jar, it gets thick and cannot be used. I like the Sculpey product for use with the clay, but it cannot be heat set in the oven as the others can.
There are a couple other  products that have been discussed by other clayers as being good for clay.  I have not yet tried them, however.

I am attempting to perfect my sanding technique and buffing tools so as to not need a gloss finish applied after curing.  I've come close, but am not yet finished experimenting yet.  I don't expect this will be the ideal method for everything I do, but am hoping this will be the new way to get a high gloss sheen on my pen barrels.

If anyone has any suggestions or tips, I am open to hearing them.  Or if you have any questions about the finishes I've used, feel free to ask.

This is a pen I made (and am using myself as a "test" piece) that does not have a gloss coat applied.  It has been sanded and buffed.  However, it was buffed with a material that didn't hold up well at the high speed, so back to the drawing board.

 This is a pendant (used from the same clay) that was sanded & buffed as well. It also does not have a gloss finish applied to the clay.  Looks pretty good, but I'd like a bit more of a glass-like shine.

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Magnifier Paperweight

This is a nice item...great gift for a retiree, executive, congratulations, graduate, Father's Day, etc.  It's a desktop paperweight magnifying glass. Overall size is 2-1/2", about 3/4" thick with a 2" magnifier with 2.5x magnification. It weighs approx. 3.2 ounces, so it has a little heft, but isn't overly heavy.  

The clay was hand-crafted using multiple techniques.  Gold powder (fine powder applied to a wet paint brush) was hand painted onto the outer border and copper coloring (a paste-like product) was added to the inner rope detailed border. These applications are applied to the raw clay prior to curing.  Swarovski crystals were placed in the center and at three points on the border.  The inner portion in blue and white clay was done with layering clay, creating a texture and slicing off the raised portions then applying the trimmings to white clay.  The clay portion is clear coated and heat set.  

Resembles water and a porthole for a nautical theme.  This item lends to many different designs and creations!  Very easy to make and is a unique piece.  It is recommended that the clay "medallion" be created, cured and glued to the magnifier to avoid placing the entire item in the direct heat as the bottom is covered with felt and the heat may dry out the adhesive that bonds it to the metal. Also, the glass in the magnifier would get pretty hot!

Mini Stylus

This is a great little tool!  It can be attached to a key chain or directly to your touch screen device. It comes with a cord and a plug that fits into the audio jack of your phone, iPad, etc. so you always have it with you.  It has a soft tip that mimics your finger on the touch screen, but is smaller than your finger.  These come in 24K Gold or Chrome and are quite easy to make.  The coverable tube is a bit small, as you can see, which poses a little bit of a challenge, but isn't difficult.  Quick, easy and economical to make, they make a great gift for a co-worker -- not too personal, but very useful -- or anyone.
These were made by laying colors, creating a textured pattern, and slicing off the raised portions of the clay to create a 2 or 3 color pattern.  Then the clay is applied to a brass tube and cured. The ends are pressed onto the tube and voila!  You have a handy dandy mini stylus!

Elegant Sierra

This pen is soooo easy to make.  Accepts Parker style refills and is a very classy pen.  This pen comes in many different metal finishes.  One single tube covered in clay and only one part requires pressing -- the rest are threaded.  It has a nice heft, but isn't a large pen -- great for men or women.
This one was made with 2 colors -- red and black -- layering the colors and making a textured pattern (impressing one color into the underlying color) then slicing off layers to get a 2-tone pattern.  The black with the red really stands out and looks great with the black titanium finish on the pen shown.  Depending on the process you choose to mix the colors (or not mix any colors) will depend on the length of time required to produce a pen like this.  One clay barrel is going to take less time than a pen with 2 barrels, but the process of getting this clay effect will add production time.

Vertex Pen

A great guy pen!!  Has the styling of nuts and bolts!  (Guys love that stuff!)  A single tube covered in copper red clay with a light copper clay border and black clay edging. The copper red was applied to the tube, then the light copper border, then the black clay edging, shaped to the desired thickness and then cured. After sanding & buffing, the pen was press-assembled.  This is a click pen available in chrome (shown), 24K Gold, or Gun Metal (matching click pencil available in all but 24K Gold) and accepts a Parker style refill.  This style is also available in a fountain pen and rollerball pen with a magnetic cap (these pens have the same styling, but look a bit different).  Make great Father's Day gifts or any occasion for the handy guy!  This pen is nicely weighted and balanced and easily assembled.  This style lends to many creative options with the clay colors and textures.

Bullet Cartridge Pens

These are great pens for the gun enthusiast, hunter, or military guy/gal.  They write nicely and are quite the conversation piece.

This is a pen made with 4 clay colors -- copper red, black, white, & beige -- by layering the colors, creating a textured pattern of your choice, and then slicing off the raised portions of the pattern to as many layers as you like to get the desired effect.  Run the clay through the pasta machine to smooth out the clay and you have a sheet of clay that can be applied to the pen tube. Shape the clay to the desired thickness, trim excess clay, and cure. Sand, buff & clear coat and press the pen together! It accepts a Parker style refill and writes very nicely.  These pens come in 24K Gold plating (shown), chrome, or gun metal. Matching pencils are available in 24K Gold or Chrome.  This is a click pen, but is also available in a twist pen version. It features a softer and quieter "click" than many click pens, also.


These are replicas of a 30 caliber cartridges. These are not actual fired cartridges. The optional rose gold tip (shown) can be installed on the pens as well as deer head, rifle or musket clips rather than the standard "scope" style clip (shown).  A 50 caliber machine gun pen is available that is an actual fired cartridge.  The 30 caliber pens are also available in a larger "magnum" size -- about 10% larger than the one shown (available in twist pen version only).  Many bullet cartridge pen styles available...if this is your thing!

Adding a photo of the pen with the rifle clip added:

 

Gift Box / Keepsake Box

This, like some I've made, is not as elaborate.  But it does have the  phrase on the inside of the lid and the foam lining inside the box.
The wording may be a rub on, it may be a sticker, it may be a transfer...depends on how you want to apply them and what you find that you like.

This one has three Swarovski crystals on the lid and gold metallic clay inlaid to resemble a gold vein.  This would be a nice box to use for giving jewelry -- earrings, bracelet, necklace, ring...

Covering a tin can be difficult if you don't "think it through." Just be sure to cover the bottom or the lid first -- don't try to do both or you won't have a place to hold the tin while you're working on it.  Cure one, then move on to the other.  Just be aware of how much time the clay that was applied first will end up in the oven.  You don't want to "over-bake" a portion of it.   You also don't want the clay too thick as it will end up being pretty heavy, but too thin a sheet of clay for coverage will most definitely give you headaches due to air bubbles. Also, the thicker the clay, the easier it is to sand if you plan to. The other tricky thing is you can't cover the entire bottom portion of the tin as the lid has to fit over the top portion of the bottom.  So, the  clay has to "stop" just at the right place...otherwise you will see either the silver from the tin or the lid won't shut.  I recommend covering and curing the lid first, then closing the lid and applying the clay to the bottom using the cured lid as a guide.  Just remember, after you've closed the lid and started covering the bottom, it won't easily be opened again until the clay on the bottom is cured.
You may come up with a better way of doing it, but so far, that's what's worked for me.

It's October! BOOO!

Pardon the crudeness of these pictures, but these were made to take to the Hendersonville Flea Market October 7-9.  I'm hoping to sell them there and not list them on Bonanza or Etsy.  
These were fun to make. The Punkin' Picks are simply clay on copper wire and a few are painted with Glow-In-The-Dark Paint! Stick them in your pumpkin or jack-o-lantern for an extra spooky touch or in your Mums planter.

The Pens are simply round disposable pens (like Bic Round Stic, but a generic brand). Simply cover the white tube (remove the ink and tips) and decorate any way you like and cure.  A gloss coating was painted onto these and Glow-In-The-Dark paint was painted onto the eyes of the ghosts.

Since the pen cap won't fit on the pens once they are covered with clay, I made holders so they would 1) stand up and 2) not dry out.  Although, I made covered Bic pens about 10 years ago and my mother still has one...It is still writing! (I think that means she doesn't use it much!! LOL)
Anyway...it's an inexpensive and fun project for Halloween!

Fall Is Here!

Grapevine wreaths are inexpensive and are a blank slate for creativity.  (Just buy the ones that are actually round and not lop-sided!)  Make anything you want in clay and glue it to the wreath!  (I recommend a glue gun rather than superglue.  Superglue works great, but it turns white and it's impossible to glue items to this kind of wreath without some of the glue showing.  Glue from a glue gun stays clear.)  You could gloss the entire wreath - grapevine and all - or just the clay parts - or neither.  These were not hard.  It took longer to figure out the leaf placements & glue them than anything.
If country decor isn't your taste, you could cover just about every inch of one of these wreaths with clay transformed into...well...anything.

HAPPY AUTUMN!

Fan / Light Pulls

These are fan / light pulls that can be easily attached to an existing ceiling fan or lamp that has a ball chain pull.  These are not special in that they aren't chrome or sterling silver...just silver tone metal, but I think the small things, like fan / light pulls, can make a huge difference in decor.  There are many different styles of pulls and I intend to get some different styles soon...in gold or chrome.  These are simple and not overstated, but would look great in a room with wood floors to coordinate floor to ceiling or in a room with brown leather furniture or stained wood furniture.  Contemporary enough with the bright silver metal and traditional enough with the brown "marbled" clay.  These were "simple" to cover, but not so "easy." Round items can be difficult. If you've ever tried to wrap a round gift in paper, you understand what I mean!  Although clay stretches and blends, and you don't have to "fold" as you do paper, you still have to be mindful of thickness consistency.  Particularly if there is any sort of variation in color, pattern, etc.  You don't want to move the clay so much that you lose the coloring or design.  Fan / light pulls can be an inexpensive project or a more pricey project, depending on the pulls you choose.  Also, many ceiling fans have two pulls and many have three.  Deciding on the number in the set can be difficult if you aren't making them for a particular person.  This set was created with brown and pearl white clay -- not completely mixed so both colors are visible.  Then a simple "snake" was created in the brown clay and wrapped around the silver finial.  (If you have a clay extruder, use that rather than rolling a snake.  If you do not and plan to get one...splurge on the nicer one...your hands and fingers will thank you!)

Slimline Textured Pen

This is a "fun" slimline pen.  Copper finish with brown clay and bits of copper and turquoise clay to give it a "speckled" look.  It is also textured in a pattern that you might find in tooled leather.  Sometimes texturing the pens is not so easy.  Once the clay is on the pen component at the correct thickness, putting the texture in the clay can push the clay "out of round."  This can be frustrating since you can't smooth the clay or roll the clay back into shape without losing the texture.  It can become a viscous cycle!  If you have a good rubber stamp with deep and thin raised areas and is also large enough (longer than the pen in size) it is much easier.  I've found that using something that fits inside the tube that is longer than the tube helps to roll the clay over the stamp at a more even pressure while keeping my fingers off the clay and pressing out the impression that was just created. I hold the "dowel" at the ends while I roll, but whatever you use as a "dowel" has to fit well in the tube or there will be too much "play" as you roll it.  Rolling the stamp over the clay doesn't work as you will smash the clay and you will be starting over!  Also, if you don't already have a baking rack -- usually used for curing beads -- it is VERY useful when curing the pen components.  Flat sides are undesirable!  However if you do not have one, just be sure to use parchment paper between your clay and the tray/pan that you use in the oven.  Slight imperfections in the roundness of the clay can be overcome when sanding, but it's best to avoid that altogether from the beginning.

Purse Hanger

I LOVE these!  Purse Hangers are a wonderful item!  They are small and fit in your purse...they are VERY useful...they are fashionable...they are like jewelry...they are an awesome gift!  They are relatively easy to make as well.  Of course, the item is "made" by a company, but they are easy to "decorate" and make very interesting.  (These always spark conversation with people at a neighboring table at a restaurant!)  There are different styles. This one folds into a circle.  Simply add clay to the center (the center is depressed to fill with clay, resin, whatever!  The holder unfolds and holds your purse off the dirty floor!  The back is covered in a rubber pad that grips the table without scratching it.  A magnet holds the hook in place when not in use.
I made this one with a mix of clay and added wire and rhinestones and beads for decoration.  After the clay was cured, I gloss coated it and heat set it, but then I added a thicker clear coat so that it filled in around the wire, stones and beads to make it smooth to the touch.  If you use resin or MagiGloss, this would be an ideal project to use those products.  Great item for a lot of one-of-a-kind gifts!